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Rock Climbing around Malaga and Marbella in Southern Spain

The rock climbing around Malaga is dominated by the world famous gorge at El Chorro. However there are many other excellent crags within the region that are also inland from Malaga, such as Desplomilandia near El Chorro, Torcal de Antequera and Archidona near Antequera, Turon near Ardales, and San Bartolo near Tarifa on the coast. Each of these crags offer 100's of bolted sport routes on limestone rock (except San Bartolo which is sandstone), and across a good range of grades.

It is possible to climb from October right through to early June (the summer is just too hot) though the ideal time is in the spring and autumn as it can be quite windy and therefore cold in the winter. As with most sport climbing in Spain at least a 60m rope is required and for some routes a 70m rope is ideal.  Around 12 to 16 quickdraws will be sufficient for the vast majority of the routes.

Other rock climbing areas within Andalucia are El Chorro and Granada, both of which offer fantastic sport climbing.

Map of the rock climbing areas in Malaga and Marbella

Map of the rock climbing areas in Malaga and Marbella

Rock Climbing crags in Malaga

No Crag Name Total number of routes at these grades Grade Range Total No of Routes Single or Multi-pitch
3 to 5+ 6a to 6b+ 6c to 7a+ 7b & over Not known
1 El Chorro 84 168 232 139 31 3 to 8c 654 Both
2 Turon 20 33 20 12 6 5 to 7b+ 91 Both
3 Las Cuevecillas. Sierra Ortegicar 1 5 6 3 2 5 to 7b+ 17 Single
4 Desplomilandia 6 44 59 46 17 5 to 8a+ 172 Single
5 Torcal de Antequera 17 45 45 21 2 4 to 8c+ 130 Single
6 Archidona 11 18 22 47 6 5 to 9a+ 104 Both
7 Villanueva del Cauche 4 17 15 13 5 5 to 8b 54 Single
8 Comares 1 4 12 10 3 5+ 8a+ 30 Single
9 Mijas/San Anton 16 42 34 14 1 4 to 8a 107 Single
10 Benahavis 19 28 11 5 4 3 to 8a 67 Both
11 Benaojan 21 24 8 7 0 4 to 7c 60 Single
12 Grazalema 5 11 32 26 7 4 to 8a 81 Both
13 Benaocaz 15 37 28 8 4 4 to 8a 92 Single
14 San Bartolo 64 59 50 49 12 3 to 8a+ 234 Both

The Roca Espana Band Sud rock climbing guidebook covers the crags around Malaga and MarbellaRock climbing guidebooks for Malaga and Marbella

There are various guidebooks that cover the rock climbing and sport climbing around Malaga and Marbella.  These are as follows:

Roca Espana Band Sud Guidebook” actually covers the southern half of Spain including Andalucia, as well as Madrid, Costa Blanca and around Valencia.  It covers 26 different crags in Andalucia including those around Malaga and Marbella, plus the crags around Granada, Cadiz, and Jean.

Andalucia Sport Climbing GuidebookEl Chorro Guidebook” is the most comprehensive guidebook for El Chorro and it also covers Mijas, Turon, Desplomilandia, Valle de Abdalajis, El Torcal, Villanueva de Cauche, Archidona and Loja crags.

The “Andalucia Sport Climbing Guidebook” covers all the crags, around Malaga and Marbella including El Chorro.  The guidebook describes over 3,600 routes, and it also includes the crags around Granada, Cadiz, and Jean.

Buy all of these rock climbing guidebooks for Malaga and Marbella from our shop.
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The Roca Espana Band Sud rock climbing guidebook covers the crags around Malaga and Marbella

The Roca Espana Band Sud guidebook covers all the crags, around Malaga and Marbella, plus those around Granada, Cadiz, and Jean.

Buy this guidebook from our shop.