The rock climbing around Malaga is dominated by the world famous gorge at El Chorro. However there are many other excellent crags within the region that are also inland from Malaga, such as Desplomilandia near El Chorro, Torcal de Antequera and Archidona near Antequera, Turon near Ardales, and San Bartolo near Tarifa on the coast. Each of these crags offer 100's of bolted sport routes on limestone rock (except San Bartolo which is sandstone), and across a good range of grades.
It is possible to climb from October right through to early June (the summer is just too hot) though the ideal time is in the spring and autumn as it can be quite windy and therefore cold in the winter. As with most sport climbing in Spain at least a 60m rope is required and for some routes a 70m rope is ideal. Around 12 to 16 quickdraws will be sufficient for the vast majority of the routes.
Rock Climbing crags in Malaga
|No||Crag Name||Total number of routes at these grades||Grade Range||Total No of Routes||Single or Multi-pitch|
|3 to 5+||6a to 6b+||6c to 7a+||7b & over||Not known|
|1||El Chorro||84||168||232||139||31||3 to 8c||654||Both|
|2||Turon||20||33||20||12||6||5 to 7b+||91||Both|
|3||Las Cuevecillas. Sierra Ortegicar||1||5||6||3||2||5 to 7b+||17||Single|
|4||Desplomilandia||6||44||59||46||17||5 to 8a+||172||Single|
|5||Torcal de Antequera||17||45||45||21||2||4 to 8c+||130||Single|
|6||Archidona||11||18||22||47||6||5 to 9a+||104||Both|
|7||Villanueva del Cauche||4||17||15||13||5||5 to 8b||54||Single|
|9||Mijas/San Anton||16||42||34||14||1||4 to 8a||107||Single|
|10||Benahavis||19||28||11||5||4||3 to 8a||67||Both|
|11||Benaojan||21||24||8||7||0||4 to 7c||60||Single|
|12||Grazalema||5||11||32||26||7||4 to 8a||81||Both|
|13||Benaocaz||15||37||28||8||4||4 to 8a||92||Single|
|14||San Bartolo||64||59||50||49||12||3 to 8a+||234||Both|
There are various guidebooks that cover the rock climbing and sport climbing around Malaga and Marbella. These are as follows:
“Roca Espana Band Sud Guidebook” actually covers the southern half of Spain including Andalucia, as well as Madrid, Costa Blanca and around Valencia. It covers 26 different crags in Andalucia including those around Malaga and Marbella, plus the crags around Granada, Cadiz, and Jean.
“El Chorro Guidebook” is the most comprehensive guidebook for El Chorro and it also covers Mijas, Turon, Desplomilandia, Valle de Abdalajis, El Torcal, Villanueva de Cauche, Archidona and Loja crags.
The “Andalucia Sport Climbing Guidebook” covers all the crags, around Malaga and Marbella including El Chorro. The guidebook describes over 3,600 routes, and it also includes the crags around Granada, Cadiz, and Jean.
The “Malaga Sport Climbing Guidebook” describes 15 crags in and around Malaga (excluding El Chorro) and is perfect for those climbers who are looking for local crags around Malaga.Buy all of these rock climbing guidebooks for Malaga and Marbella from our shop.
The Roca Espana Band Sud guidebook covers all the crags, around Malaga and Marbella, plus those around Granada, Cadiz, and Jean.
Buy this guidebook from our shop.