Cala Gonone has long been established as one of the main rock climbing areas in Sardinia and as such attracts many International visitors. Primarily the majority of the rock climbing here is single pitch sports routes, offering many different styles from slabs, steep walls and fierce overhangs on hard limestone rock.There is some multi-pitch rock climbing to be found in Cala Gonone, though this tends to be easier routes (up to French 6a), which are not bolted at all, and are therefore protected using traditional nuts and cams. However there are exceptions to this notably; Grotta dei Colombi crag that has fully bolted routes up to 210m long in the 6b-6c grade range; and La Poltrona crag where all the routes are fully bolted across a wide range of grades. There is also some sea cliff climbing to be found at Biddiriscottai.
For guided or instructed climbing holidays in Cala Gonone we recommend our friends at
Rock & Sun.
|Rock Climbing and Sports Climbing areas around Cala Gonone|
|No||Region||Type of Climbing||Max Height||No of Routes||Grade Range||Single or Multi-pitch|
|1||Cala Cartoe||Sport||15m||21||5a to 7a||Single|
|2||Margheddie||Sport/Trad||150m||41||4b to 8a||Both|
|3||Grotta dei Colombi||Sport/Trad||210m||26||VI to 8b+||Both|
|4||Biddiriscottai||Sport||80m||50||5b to 8a+||Both|
|5||Arcadio (Monte Irveri)||Sport||55m||55||5c to 7c+||Both|
|6||Alveare||Sport||30m||13||6b+ to 7b||Single|
|7||P. Serendippo (Budinetto)||Sport/Trad||40m||23||3c to 6c||Both|
|8||Placche Flintstones||Sport||35m||16||4c to 6a+||Single|
|9||Budino||Sport/Trad||220m||18||3 to 6a+||Both|
|10||La Poltrona||Sport||175m||75||4b to 8a||Both|
|11||S'atta Ruia (Dorgali)||Sport||50m||81||5a to 7b||Both|
|12||Falesia Scheel||Sport||30m||7||6b to 7b+||Single|
|13||I Tornanti||Sport||20m||37||5c to 7b+||Single|
|14||Monte Bonacoa||Sport||30m||34||5a to 6b+||Single|
|15||Aguaplano||Sport||35m||11||6a to 7c+||Both|
|16||Ziu Martine||Sport||30m||7||6c+ to 8a||Single|
|17||Codula Fuili||Sport||30m||60||4a to 8a+||Single|
|18||Cala Fuili||Sport||70m||117||5a to 8b+||Both|
|19||Noce Secca||Sport||Not Known||12||Not Known||Single|
|20||L'ottavo Nano||Sport||25m||14||5b to 6c||Single|
|21||Cuccuru 'e Su Carvu||Sport||30m||4||7b to 8a||Single|
|22||Buchi Arta||Sport||30m||35||5b to 7a||Single|
|23||Cala Luna||Sport||75m||56||5c to 8b+||Both|
The above information has been extracted from the "Arrampicare a Cala Gonone" guidebook that is available to buy from our shop. This guidebook details over 800 sports and trad routes in Cala Gonone and its surrounding area. There is another guidebook available that also covers the majority of the crags detailed above. This is the “5th Edition of the Pietra di Luna” guidebook (published in October 2011), which describes more than 3600 single pitch sports routes all over the island of Sardinia, including those in Cala Gonone. Both of these guidebooks for Cala Gonone can be bought from our shop.
There are many other excellent rock climbing areas near Cala Gonone such as the bouldering near Nuoro and big wall multi-pitch routes up to 400m long to the west of Dorgali called Supramonte. The only guidebook available that covers these bouldering and multi-pitch climbing areas is the “4th Edition of the Pietra di Luna” guidebook (published in 2007), which is still available to buy from our shop.
For the majority of the routes a single 60m rope and up to 12 quickdraws will be sufficient. For those looking to climb the long multi-pitch routes, then duel ropes and a full lead rock with nuts and friends is advisable.The best time to go rock climbing in Cala Gonone is from the autumn through to the spring as it is just too hot in the summer months. Click here for further information on how to get to Cala Gonone.