Rock climbing in Malta and Gozo was started by the British RAF in the 1960's and 1970's and hence has a history of British trad rock climbing ethics (with the leader placing natural protection such as nuts and friends). During the 1980's and 1990's other European climbers (mainly Italian) visited the island and established many new bolted sport routes. Hence the islands offer a good mixture of sport and trad rock climbing on good quality limestone rock. This is something that is unique in the Mediterranean and offers rock climbers the best of both worlds. The climbing ethic is to have designated sport climbing crags and keep the traditional rock climbing crags bolt free.
There are many crags on the islands of Malta and Gozo, with nearly 1,500 routes across all grades on excellent limestone rock. Approximately 70% of these routes are on Malta with 30% on Gozo. The style of rock climbing varies from single pitch to multi-pitch routes, coupled with bouldering (mainly on Gozo); and many deep-water soloing (DWS) locations, ideal in the hot summer months! These routes are spread all across the islands from rugged coastlines, inland valleys, to caves and ridges.
Surprisingly the crags on Malta and Gozo are very quiet as there few local climbers! However this does mean there is virtually no polish and the crags are peaceful. The Maltese islands are the most southerly European country, which makes them the ideal year round rock climbing area, with lots of sun and warm seas.
For information about average temperatures for Malta and Gozo, accommodation and how to get there, then look at our Malta and Gozo Logistics Page.