Climb Europe
Climb Europe

Rock Climbing at Muzzerone

The rock climbing at Muzzerone offers some dramatic sea cliff climbing close to the town of La Spezia.  This wild environment is one of the most beautiful climbing areas in the world, due to the unspoilt nature of the crags and their position by the sea.

The sea cliffs of Muzzerone are made up of 20 separate limestone crags that are characterised by pillars of limestone rock dropping down to the sea.  There is a wide range of climbing styles to be found at Muzzerone, from slabs and vertical walls, to overhanging routes across a wide range of climbing grades (F4+ to F8b).  The vast majority of the routes are graded from F5a to F7c, and are easily accessible, with a typical approach time between 10 and 25 minutes.

The routes at Muzzerone are sensibly bolted with both single pitch sport routes and multi-pitch routes up to 270m long.  These long multi-pitch routes start from just above the sea with many of them in the mid grades.  However a significant number of the multi-pitch routes are between 2 or 3 pitches long.

Muzzerone rock climbing guidebookThe other rock climbing areas dotted along the coast between Sestri Lavante and La Spezia are also on bolted limestone rock, with the vast majority of the routes being single pitch.  There is even some newly developed Deep Water Soloing (DWS) to be found at Punta Bianco.

The information opposite has been extracted from the Muzzerone Rock Climbing Guidebook, and is available to buy from our shop.

Map of the rock climbing areas on the Levante coast including Muzzerone

Map of the rock climbing areas on the Levante coast including Muzzerone

Rock climbing areas on the Levante coast including Muzzerone

No Crag Total No of Routes Total number at this grade Single or Multi-pitch
Up to F5 F5 F6 F7 F8 and above
1 Muzzerone 423 2 97 196 115 13 Both
2 Rocchetta 32 11 15 5 1 0 Single
3 Monte Marcello 31 0 4 19 6 2 Single
4 Punta Bianco 14 0 0 3 7 4 DWS
5 Castellana 27 4 12 10 1 0 Both
6 Sant' Anna 29 0 2 24 2 1 Single
7 Punta Manara 73 6 12 40 13 2 Single
8 Moneglia 33 1 7 22 2 1 Single
9 Deiva Marina 54 8 14 26 5 1 Single

Muzzerone Climbing Logistics

noneThe rock climbing around Muzzerone is easily reached from Genova airport, where hire cars can be collected from. Fast roads quickly lead to La Spezia, and the climbing is reached via the village of Le Grazie, down narrow twisty lanes. There is a limited amount of accommodation available in Le Grazie.

Buy the Muzzerone E Levante Ligure guidebook from our shopClimbing season - The best time of the year to visit to go rock climbing in Muzzerone is in the autumn and spring, though it is possible to climb during the winter months as the majority of the crags face south west. During the summer it is only possible to climb in the early mornings due to the heat and orientation of the crags.

The Faces A La Mer Sea Cliff GuidebookThe Rock Climbing in Muzzerone Guidebook is the definitive guidebook for Muzzerone and the surrounding area.  It includes more than 700 routes, of which more than 400 are at Muzzerone.  The Faces A La Mer Guidebook also covers a selection of routes at Muzzerone, along with other sea cliff crags on the Mediterranean coast. Buy these guidebooks for Muzzerone from our shop.

Photograph of sea cliff climbing at Muzzerone

The photograph above shows Jenny Lavarda climbing No Sestri, F8b at Muzzerone.

This photograph shows the stunning aspect of the sea cliff climbing at Muzzerone.

Muzzerone rock climbing photograph – Anabolizzami, F7c+ Muzzerone rock climbing photograph – Angina Pectoris, F6b+ Muzzerone rock climbing photograph – Barracuda, F7b+ Muzzerone rock climbing photograph – Giuliana, F6b+ Muzzerone rock climbing photograph – Mamy on Sight, F7b Muzzerone rock climbing photograph – Niente per caso, F7a+ Muzzerone rock climbing photograph – No Siesta, F8b Muzzerone rock climbing photograph – No Smoking, F7c Muzzerone rock climbing photograph – Ovomaltina, F7a
Muzzerone rock climbing photograph – Quattro Passi nei Fantastico, F6c Muzzerone rock climbing photograph – Trident, F6b

Click on the image to view a larger photograph showing the excellent sea cliff rock climbing to be found at Muzzerone.

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Buy the Muzzerone rock climbing guidebook from our shop

Buy the Muzzerone Rock Climbing Guidebook from our shop.