The rock climbing at Meteora consists of huge pinnacles and monasteries (similar to Montserrat in Spain), with some of these monasteries actually located on top of the pinnacles. The routes here are a mixture between bolted and traditional (placing own protection), and vary between single pitch and multi-pitch routes up to 285m long.
There is a considerable variation in the amount of fixed gear (bolts and some pegs) used on routes and, historically the ethic was to use as little as possible. Therefore you can climb a well-bolted single pitch route, and then a more committing multi-pitch trad route, where you will need to place nuts and friends along with the occasional bolt or peg. The type of rock is mainly conglomerate along with some limestone and granite. The majority of routes are on slaby or vertical rock with many routes in the F5a to F6c+ grade range, though harder quality routes are available.
Close to Meteora are the crags of Theopetra, Pyli and Mouzaki. These crags offer well-bolted sport climbing on good quality limestone rock. The climbing is often steep including routes with tufas on clean rock. Routes at Pyli and Mouzaki are featured in the Greece Sport Climbing Guidebook, which is available to buy from our shop.
The information opposite has been extracted from Greece and The Middle East Rock Climbing Atlas, which is available to buy from our shop. This useful book describes the different crags, number of routes, style of climbing, how to get there, where to stay, and general information about the area, though it doesn't describe any individual routes.
At Rizoma there is a good bouldering area on sandstone rock. This area is reasonably well developed with approximately 100 problems, with most of the problems marked with numbers or arrows. There is a good range of grades here (Fb 2a to 7b+), though the more popular problems are in the Fb 5a to 6c+ range. A crash mat is advisable though most of the boulders are not that high, which makes the bouldering very enjoyable. The bouldering at Rizoma is featured in the Olympic Blocs guidebook, which is available to buy in our shop.
Rock climbing areas around Meteora
|No||Crag||Type of Climbing||No. of Routes||Max Height||Type of Rock|
|1||Meteora||Sport/Trad||700||285m||Mainly Conglomerate with some Limestone and granite|
Meteora is located in the northern half of Greece, near the town of Trikala, with the closest main city being Larisa. The best time to visit this area is from autumn through to the spring, though it can be cold (and sometimes snow) in the winter. The popular place for rock climbers to stay is the Vrachos campsite at Kastraki.
To get the most out of the rock climbing at Meteora (with it's unique atmosphere), it is advisable to take twin 50m ropes and traditional gear such as nuts and friends. A single 70m rope and quickdraws are sufficient providing you are only looking to do single pitch sports routes.
Meteora is included in the multi-pitch rock climbing in Europe guidebook. Though this book doesn’t include any routes it describes the climbing at Meteora in great detail, along with many great photographs. Further information is then given about practical information about how to get there, where to stay, when to go, rock quality and routes, and the type of gear required for climbing at Meteora. Buy this multi-pitch rock climbing in Europe guidebook from our shop.
Olympic Bloc describes the bouldering at Kos, Pinovo, Rizoma (near Meteora), Varasova, Volos and Maronia. Buy this guidebook from our shop.