The Bourgogne area (known as Burgundy to the English) stretches from Auxerre in the north through Dijon and Beaune to Macon in the south. This area is one of the main wine growing areas of France, which means it gets lots of sunshine and very little rain - ideal for rock climbing throughout the year!
Main Crags around Bourgogne
|Crag no||Area||No. of Routes||Max Height||Rock Type|
|2||Rochers du Parc||146||28m||Limestone|
The above information has been extracted from the guidebook called "Bourgogne onsight - a vue", by Jingo Wobbly. It covers 19 major crags in the area, of which 16 are covered in great detail. The 3 largest crags of Surgy (near Clamecy south of Auxerre), Saffres & Hauteroche (both to the east of Dijon) are also covered, but only selected sectors are detailed, as it would be impractical to include all the routes in a single guidebook. However there are more than enough routes detailed at each of these 3 crags to keep any visitor happy. The Bourgogne onsight guidebook is currently out of print.
The rock climbing in the Bourgogne and Dijon area is very varied, in terms of the different styles on offer, and the wide range of routes to choose from. There is something for everyone, as virtually every crag offers a wide range of grades from F4's through to F7/8's. The majority of the routes are single pitch sport routes, of which most of them are about 25m high. However the quality of the routes is very good and they are usually sustained for their grade. All of the crags are limestone, except at Vieux-Chateau, which is granite and has a rough pink texture.
The above photograph shows the limestone crag of Saussois, which is just south of Auxerre. The photograph is copyright of www.burgundytoday.com.
The photograph above shows Karen Jones enjoying the fantastic sports climbing that is available at Saffres.