Rock Climbing
in The Peak District
Situated between Sheffield and Manchester, this is the most
popular rock climbing area in England, with literally many
thousands of routes to choose from. These routes offer a wide
variety of style of rock climbing and different types of rock.
The area is famous for its gritstone edges, such as Stanage
and Froggatt that are situated on the moors around the villages
of Hathersage and Grindleford, plus others further a field
such as The Roaches near Leek. These are generally single
pitch routes where the leader has to place traditional gear
such as nuts and cams. Under no circumstances will you find
any bolts or pegs on these gritstone edges! The style of climbing
varies from hand jamming cracks to delicately smearing up
slabs that offer superb friction. It is at these Gritstone
crags where the majority of the bouldering in the Peaks is
also found.
The Peak Distract also has many limestone rock climbing areas
that are both natural crags and old disused quarries. The
natural crags found at places such as Stoney Middleton, and
High Tor near Matlock, offer both single pitch and multi-pitch
routes. Here again the style of climbing is to place traditional
gear such as nuts and cams, though you will find some in-situ
pegs. At the old disused quarries, such Horseshoe quarry,
there are many single pitch bolted sports routes.
It is possible to rock climb in the Peak District throughout
the year providing it is dry. The winter, on crisp cold days,
is the best time to go gritstone bouldering, as this is when
the friction is at its best. Also during the winter many of
the limestone quarries offer sheltered sports climbing. Traditional
rock climbing on many of the edges is most popular from spring
right through to autumn.
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