In total there are over 340 routes in Paklenica on superb limestone rock. There is everything from single pitch sports routes to big wall rock climbing up the 350m face of Anica kuk (up to 11-pitch routes). Therefore Paklenica is ideal for everyone from the absolute beginner to the most experienced rock climber. With the exception of Anica kuk that generally faces north, the vast majority of the other crags face either east or west meaning you can always be climbing in the sun or shade, depending upon your preference.
Single Pitch Sports Routes
From the car park a path leads up through a narrow section of the gorge know as Klanci. This is where the majority of the single pitch sports routes are and the start of these can be reached inside 5 minutes from the car park. The routes are located on both sides of the valley, on small independent faces and steep over hangs, at the base of the peaks of Kuk od Skradelin, Cuk and Debeli kuk. In this area there are over 170 routes between F5a to F8b+.
Multi Pitch Routes
The majority of the multi pitch routes are located on the
faces of Anica kuk, Debeli kuk, Cuk, and Mali Cuk. Particularly
on Anica kuk the atmosphere is of big wall traditional rock
climbing, requiring the placing of natural gear such as friends
and nuts, though the classic lines have been re-equipped with
Anica kuk is the classic crag of the valley, with its 350m high NW face, and only a 45-minute walk from the car. This crag alone has over 100 multi pitch routes, from F4 to F8-, with climbs up to 11-pitches long. Click here for a photo showing 3 of the classic routes of the crag.
Debeli kuk is also a classic crag with the added bonus of being nearer the car park. The climbs are shorter, though they can still be up to 6-pitches long
For the single pitch sports routes, a 60m single rope and 10-12 quickdraws would be perfectly adequate. However, for the multi pitch routes twin 50m ropes and a full rack of wires and friends would be recommended, as the older routes only have a few in-situ pegs and on some of the other routes the bolts are very spaced. As always on multi-pitch, limestone routes it would be advisable to take a helmet!
We currently have a limited number of damaged Paklenica Guidebooks at discounted prices. The books have a slight crease on the corners or the spline, but are perfectly usable. Buy the slightly damaged Paklenica Guidebook for only £13.95 + P&P. This is a saving of £12.00!
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