The towns of Ripoll and Burga are situated in the foothills of the Pyrenees in northern Catalunya, around 100km north of Barcelona. In this area are a number of crags that offer well bolted sport routes as shown on the map opposite. However the stand out crag of the area is Montgrony.
Rock Climbing Around Ripoll and Berda
|No||Crag||Exposure to Sun||Max Height||Grade Range|
|1||Ogassa||Afternoon||30m||F4b to F7c|
|2||Corones||All Day||25m||F5c to F8b|
|3||Clot de I'Espasa||All Day||35m||F6a to F8a|
|4||Gombren||Mainly shade||30m||F6b to F7c+|
|5||Montgrony||All Day||40m||F5b to F9a|
|6||Coll Roig||All Day||150m||F5b to F8a+|
|7||Coll de Merolla||All Day||40m||F4b to F8c|
|8||Roc de la Lluna||All Day||30m||F5b to F8a|
|9||Malanyeu||All Day||50m||F5c to F7b+|
|10||Riugreixer||Mainly shade||40m||F6a to F7c+|
Montgrony is an internationally well-known crag that is famous for its overhanging walls of tufas – and offers some of the best routes in Catalunya for this type of climbing. In total there are around 300 routes here, many of which are F7a and above, though there are also many quality routes from F6a to F6c+. The character of the climbing is long single pitch sport routes on good quality limestone rock. However be warned many of the routes are sustained, bouldery and physical – everything you would expect from overhanging tufas.
The crags of Corones and Gombren offer routes with a similar style of climbing to Montgrony, whilst Coll de Merolla has many easier routes that are between F4 to F6c. The best multi-pitch climbing in the area is at Coll Roig with routes up to 150m long, where the climbing is characterized by long columns of limestone rock. All of these crags are not as popular as other crags in Catalunya, which means there are rarely any crowds and the scenery is fantastic.
When is the best time to climb at Montgrony? Montgrony and most of the other crags in this area are at an altitude of over 1,000m and facing south catching the sun for most of the day. Hence the best time of the year to climb here is from the autumn through to the spring.
What is the best guidebook for Montgrony? The Montgrony Rock Climbing Guidebook is is a selective guidebook describing the best sport climbing at Montgrony and 9 other crags around Ripoll and Berga. In total over 500 routes are covered including those at Corones, Gombren, and Coll de Merolla crags. Buy this guidebook for Montgrony from our shop.
Getting to Montgrony? Girona airport to the north of Barcelona is around an hour’s drive to Ripoll, where many budget airlines operate from.