Rock Climbing and Sport Climbing in Cala Gonone

Cala Gonone has long been established as one of the main rock climbing areas in Sardinia and as such attracts many International visitors. Primarily the majority of the rock climbing here is single pitch sport routes, offering many different styles from slabs, steep walls and fierce overhangs on hard limestone rock.

There is some multi-pitch rock climbing to be found in Cala Gonone, though this tends to be easier routes (up to French 6a), which are not bolted at all, and are therefore protected using traditional nuts and cams. However there are exceptions to this notably; Grotta dei Colombi crag that has fully bolted routes up to 210m long in the 6b-6c grade range; and La Poltrona crag where all the routes are fully bolted across a wide range of grades. There is also some sea cliff climbing to be found at Biddiriscottai, Grotta dei Colombi, Millennium and Cala Luna.

Map of the rock climbing and sport climbing areas around Cala Gonone

Map of the rock climbing and sport climbing areas around Cala Gonone

Rock Climbing and Sport Climbing areas around Cala Gonone

NoRegionType of ClimbingMax HeightNo of RoutesGrade RangeSingle or Multi-pitch
1Cala CartoeSport15m165a to 7aSingle
2MargheddieSport/Trad150m1154b to 8aBoth
3Grotta dei ColombiSport/Trad210m18VI to 8a+Both
4MillenniumSport50m256a to 8c+Single
5BiddiriscottaiSport105m575b to 8a+Both
6Arcadio (Monte Irveri)Sport55m585c to 8a+Both
7AlveareSport30m136b+ to 7bSingle
8P. Serendippo (Budinetto)Sport/Trad40m313c to 6bBoth
9Placche FlintstonesSport35m244c to 6b+Single
10BudinoSport/Trad220m233 to 6a+Both
11La PoltronaSport175m714b to 8aBoth
12S'atta Ruia (Dorgali)Sport50m915a to 8aBoth
13Falesia ScheelSport30m76b to 7b+Single
14I TornantiSport20m375c to 7b+Single
15Monte BonacoaSport30m355a to 6b+Single
16AguaplanoSport35m236a to 7c+Both
17Ziu MartineSport30m76c+ to 8aSingle
18Codula FuiliSport30m854a to 8b+Single
19Cala FuiliSport70m1415a to 8cBoth
20Noce SeccaSport30m226b to 8b+Single
21L'ottavo NanoSport25m145b to 6cSingle
22Cuccuru 'e Su CarvuSport30m97b to 8aSingle
23Buchi ArtaSport30m485b to 7aSingle
24Cala LunaSport75m585c to 8b+Both

Cala Gonone Rock Climbing Guidebooks

The “5th Edition of the Pietra di Luna” guidebook (published in October 2011) covers the majority of the crags detailed above.  In total this Pietra di Luna Guidebook describes more than 3600 single pitch sports routes all over the island of Sardinia, including those in Cala Gonone.

The “Supramonte rock climbing guidebook” is a selective guidebook covering 12 of the best crags in Cala Gonone.  It also covers some single pitch crags around Urzulei, Oliena, and Lanaitto in the Supramonte Mountains that are quieter than those in Cala Gonone, but the quality is just as good.

Buy all of these guidebooks for Cala Gonone from our shop.

Cala Gonone Climbing Logistics and Beta

For the majority of the single pitch sport routes a single 60m rope and up to 16 quickdraws will be sufficient. For those looking to climb the long multi-pitch routes, then duel ropes and a full lead rock with nuts and friends is advisable.

The best time to go rock climbing in Cala Gonone is from the autumn through to the spring as it is just too hot in the summer months. Looking for accommodation in Cala Gonone that is suitable for rock climbers? Click here for more information.

  • Cala Gonone rock climbing photograph - Hey Jude (F5c), La Poltrona
  • Cala Gonone rock climbing photograph - Cala Luna
  • Supramonte rock climbing photograph - Madame Bovary (F7a), Monte Oddeu
  • Supramonte rock climbing photograph - Punta Cusidore

Click on the images to view a larger photograph. These photographs illustrate the fantastic rock climbing to be found in at Cala Gonone and Supramonte.

The 5th Edition of the Pietra di Luna guidebook describes more than 3600 single pitch sports routes all over the island of Sardinia, including those in Cala Gonone.

Buy this guidebook from our shop.


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