The climbing screen around Lisbon is very well developed and has the largest concentration of crags in Portugal. The map opposite shows the location of all these main crags.
Main crags in Central Portugal
|No||Crag||Rock Type||Type of Climbing||Single or Multi Pitch||No of Routes||Grade Range|
|1||Buracas do Casmilo||Limestone||Sport||Single||85||F6a to F8c|
|2||Redinha/Vale de Poios||Limestone||Sport||Single||256||F3 to F8a|
|3||Reguengo do Fetal||Limestone||Sport||Single||136||F4 to F8b|
|4||Cabo Carvoeiro||Limestone||Trad||Single||43||F4 to F7a|
|5||Montejunto||Limestone||Sport||Single||71||F3 to F8a|
|6||Casal Pianos||Basalt||Trad||Single||73||F3 to F8a|
|7||Penedo da Amizade||Granite||Sport and Trad||Both||72||F3 to F8a|
|8||Sintra||Granite||Bouldering||N/A||176||Fb 4 to Fb 8b|
|9||Espinhaco/Ponta Atlantica||Granite||Trad||Multi-Pitch||65||F5 to F8a|
|10||Cascais||Limestone||Sport and Bouldering||Single||98||F2 to F8b|
|11||Meio Mango||Limestone||Sport||Single||101||F5 to F8c|
|12||Azoia||Limestone||Sport||Single||62||F4 to F8a|
|13||Sesimbra Velha||Limestone||Sport||Both||50||F4 to F8a|
|14||Dente do Leao||Limestone||Sport||Single||11||F6b to F7c|
|15||Fenda||Limestone||Sport||Single||130||F3 to F8b|
|Escusa||Limestone||Sport||Single||44||F4 to F8b|
The towns of Sintra and Cascais to the west of Lisbon provide a great variety of climbing in great locations. Sintra is situated high in a forest in an atmospheric environment that is often cooler than the beaches a few kilometres away. Sintra is famous for its excellent granite bouldering that is spread across 3 main areas, Capuchos, Peninha, and Malveira. Here there are big balls of granite rock with an abrasive grip that require compression moves, insane crimps, technical vertical walls, friction slabs, and some highball problems.
The climbing at Cascais and further north around the coast is all about sea cliff climbing. At Farol da Guia it is sport climbing with around 100 routes on limestone rock. Espinhaco and Ponta Atlantica are 2 crags close together that offer multi-pitch trad routes up to 120m long, on granite rock. Trad routes are also found at Casal Pianos where the basalt rock is highly featured with many crack lines that has been compared to a smaller version of Indian Creek by the sea!
South of Lisbon is the Arrabida National Park near the town of Setubal. Stretched along this rugged coastline are 5 sport climbing areas offering over 350 routes across a wide range of grades. These limestone cliffs are among the best sport climbing to be found in Portugal. The routes at Meio Mango and Fenda are steep with many routes in the F7’s, whilst at Azoia the routes are friendlier with many routes around F6.
Around the town of Leiria, to the north of Lisbon, are several excellent sport climbing crags. All of these crags are situated in pleasant hills and their altitude makes them perfect to escape the hot sun, as they are significantly cooler than the coast. Within the Serra do Sico Mountains there are around 300 routes on good quality limestone rock spread across 3 different crags. The crags are called Redinha, Vale de Poios, and Buracas do Casmilo, and all 3 provide superb technical routes across a wide range of grades.
The Portugal rock climbing guidebook covers the rock climbing and bouldering in central Portugal around Lisbon.
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