The Pietra di Bismantova rock climbing guidebook covers both the multi-pitch and single pitch bolted routes at Bismantova. Buy this guidebook from our shop.
Rock climbing at Bismantova
Bismantova is a massive, anvil-shaped sandstone buttress standing above the village of Castelnuovo ne’ Monti, to the south of Reggio Emilia and west of Genova. Situated in the heart of the Emilian Apennines there is some great bolted multi-pitch rock climbing to be found at Bismantova. Many of these routes are between 100m and 150m long, as well as many single pitch sport routes. In total there are over 250 routes.
Map showing the location of the rock climbing at Bismantova
The characteristic of the climbing at Bismantova is on steep vertical walls with many corners and grooves. The routes tend to be technical with crimpy holds and cracks, across a wide range of grades between F4 and F8c. Though the vast majority of the routes are fully bolted there are some routes (generally easier ones) that also require some trad gear such as cams and nuts.
What guidebooks are available for Bismantova?
When is the best time to climb at Bismantova?
It is possible to climb all year round at Bismantova with the spring and summer being cool but dry and pleasant. Sun and shade can always be found as the crag faces southeast, east and northeast, and is at an altitude of 950m.
The photograph shows Barbara Spallanzani climbing the 130m route of Zuffa ’70. This route is a Bismantova classic that follows a strong natural line.
The Pietra di Bismantova rock climbing guidebook covers both the multi-pitch and single pitch bolted routes at Bismantova. Buy this guidebook from our shop.