Bismantova is a massive, anvil-shaped sandstone buttress standing above the village of Castelnuovo ne’ Monti, to the south of Reggio Emilia and west of Genova. Here there is some great bolted multi-pitch rock climbing to be found with many of the routes between 100 to 150m long, as well as many single pitch sport routes. In total there are around 250 routes.
The characteristic of the climbing at Bismantova is on steep vertical walls with many corners and grooves. The routes tend to be technical with crimpy holds and cracks, across a wide range of grades between F4 and F8c.
The Pietra di Bismantova is the comprehensive guidebook covering the rock climbing at Bismantova. It covers both the multi-pitch routes and the single pitch sport routes. Buy this guidebook from our shop.
It is possible to climb all year round at Bismantova with the spring and summer being cool but dry and pleasant. Sun and shade can always be found as the crag faces southeast, east and northeast, and is at an altitude of 950m.
The photograph opposite shows Barbara Spallanzani climbing the 130m route of Zuffa ’70. This photograph appears on the front cover of the Pietra di Bismantova rock climbing guidebook that can be bought from our shop.