Wye Valley Rock Climbing

Sport and trad climbing at Wyndcliff

The main Wyndcliff crag offers long single-pitch trad routes in the mid-grade range of HS to E2.  The best routes are all sustained, following strong natural lines up grooves and crack with plentiful natural protection.

Wyndcliff Quarry is the largest sport climbing area within the Wye Valley.  Here there are over 100 well-bolted sport routes, with the majority in the F4 to F6b+ grade range.  Wyndcliff Quarry faces south and is the best place to climb in the Wye Valley from the autumn through to spring.  The crag is surprisingly well sheltered and quickly becomes a sun trap at the first hint of sun, and it is the first place in the Wye Valley to be dry after any rain.

Trad climbing at Shorn Cliff

Shorn Cliff offers long single pitch trad routes on unquarried limestone rock, and is one of the most popular crags in the Wye Valley.  Shorn Cliff is best known for its slabby wall climbing on highly featured limestone rock that could have been purpose-built for trad climbing.  Incut pockets and slots swallow fingers, wires and cams, whilst on steeper walls concretions of all sizes and shapes provide bizarre holds from tiny crimps to absurd jugs. There are also a few excellent crack lines scattered along the cliff.  Shorn Cliff is the place for the mid-grade climber with the majority of the routes in the VS to E2 range.

Whilst the base of the crag is tree-shrouded, much of the rock basks in the afternoon sun and it is possible to climb at Shorn Cliff throughout the year, though the best times are in the spring and autumn.

Trad climbing Symonds Yat

The steep limestone buttresses of Symonds Yat are perched high above the River Wye, peeking out of picturesque woodland.  Symonds Yat is a popular climbing venue with the added bonus of having the parking and a tea shack at the top of the crag.

The climbing at Symonds Yat is usually on good, steep juggy limestone rock that includes a great variety of rock features, including a free standing pinnacle and caves.  The routes are generally between 10m and 30m long, plus some longer 2-pitch routes, across a wide range of grades.  Generally the protection is good but can be spaced with the occasional route having a bold start.

Sport climbing at Ban-y-gor

Hidden away in the depths of the Lower Wye woodlands is Ban-y-gor with its own imposing Main Cliff and a multitude of shorter climbs across the considerable length of its escarpment. Although originally a trad venue it is now one of the Wye Valley’s most significant sport climbing crags.  The Main Cliff is home to some quality hard routes around the F7 grade with routes just over 20m long.  Across the rest of the shorter escarpment there is a wide range of grades up to F8a, with over 60 routes in the F3+ to F6b grade range.

Ban-y-gor has a distinct climbing style through a series of jutting overlaps that can leave the climber pumped and struggling to hold onto the large flat holds.  Often the key to success is good footwork!  Being sheltered in the woods Ban-y-gor is an ideal choice during the summer when it is much cooler than the rest of the crags in the Wye Valley.

Sandstone Outcrops in the Forest of Dean

There are a number of short sandstone outcrops within the Forest of Dean that offer a wide range of short routes and some bouldering.  The main crags are Doward, Spion Kop, Coppet Hill, Huntsham and Ruspidge Quarries.