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Rock climbing guidebook for MallorcaPsicobloc describes the deep water soloing and bouldering on Mallorca
 
     

The rock climbing
guidebook for Mallorca, by Rockfax covers the sports routes.

Psicobloc Mallorca covers the Deep Water Soloing to be found on the island.

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What time of the year is best to rock climb at Mallorca?

What accommodation
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Rock Climbing in Mallorca

The island of Mallorca has for a long time established itself as one of Europe's premier rock climbing and sports climbing destinations. Also Mallorca has now become a top European venue for Deep Water Soloing (DWS). The type and style of the rock climbing found at Mallorca has something for everyone from slaby walls, evil overhangs, juggy tuffas, roofs, and cracks. With a few notable exceptions, the majority of the rock climbing on the island is single pitch, with plenty of routes at every grade. The Deep Water Soloing areas are situated in idyllic bays mainly on the southwest side of the island.

If you avoid the hot summer season then you will find a quiet island, with pleasantly mild weather, that is easily accessible with cheap flights from all over Europe, and has lots of bolted limestone rock to climb. On top of this there is still the scope for developing new routes such is the abundance of rock to be found on Mallorca.

The majority of the established crags are located in the mountains on the northeast side of the island. The atmosphere of the climbing is magical with beautiful crags of perfect rock, set amidst some majestic mountains with glorious sunny Mediterranean weather.

 
Map of the Rock Climbing Areas in Mallorca
 
 
All of the crags shown only have single pitch routes, with the exception of Alaro, Queixal, and Valldemossa, which offer some 2-pitch routes. The only true multi-pitch rock climbing available is at Sa Gubia (up to 240m long) and at Gorg Blau (up to 200m). The above information has been extracted from the Rockfax guidebook for Mallorca, which is available to buy from our shop.
Rocking climbing & Sports Climbing areas in Mallorca
No Crag
Aspect
Total No. of Routes
Up to 4+
5 to 6a+
6b to 7a
7a+ and up
1 Xon Xanquete
N
29
0
3
3
23
2 El Fumat
W
20
0
6
9
5
3 Creveta
SW
40
5
12
21
2
4 Boquer Valley
All
32
6
13
8
5
5 Es Queixal
W
13
0
7
5
1
6 Gorg Blau
S
47
2
2
15
28
7 Port de Soller
W
27
0
2
16
9
8 C'an Nyic
NW
13
1
1
5
6
9 Les Perxes
N
50
0
8
17
25
10 Alaro
SE
51
1
13
13
24
11 Valldemossa
W
53
3
16
27
7
12 Sa Gubia
All
115
5
35
47
28
13 Fraguel
E
58
1
8
10
39
14 Can Torrat
W
21
0
0
4
17
15 S'estret
N
47
5
18
6
18
16 Calvia
S
17
1
9
7
0
17 Puig de Garrafa
All
50
3
19
18
10
18 Santa Ponca
N
8
0
1
2
5
19 El Calo de Betlem
W
28
0
5
16
7
20 Ermita de Betlem
W & N
57
1
4
19
33
21 Cala Magraner
SE
67
4
24
24
15
22 Felanitx
E
20
0
0
1
19
23 Tijuana
S
51
2
7
20
22
 

Map of the Deep Water Soloing (DWS)
areas in Mallorca

 
Deep Water Soloing areas in Mallorca
No
Crag
Total No. of Routes
Grade range
1
Porto Cristo
24
6b to 8a+
2
Cala Barques
35
6b to 8b
3
Porto Colom
17
6b to 7b
4
Cala Sa Nau
7
6a to 8b
5
Cala Mitjane
5
6b to 7b
6
Cala Ferera
95
6a to 8a+
7
Santanyi
14
6b to 9b
8
Port Pi
7
6a to 8b+
9
Ses Puntes
7
6b to 7c
 
 

The largest developed area is at Cala Ferera, where there is a good mixture of lower to mid grades. Typically all of the routes are between 10 to 20m long.
The above information has been extracted from Psicobloc Mallorca guidebook, which is available to buy from our shop.
 
Mallorca rock climbing photographs Mallorca rock climbing photographs Mallorca rock climbing photographs Mallorca rock climbing photographs Mallorca rock climbing photographs Mallorca rock climbing photographs Mallorca rock climbing photographs


The images shown opposite are from "Rock climbs in Mallorca" by Chris Craggs (now out of print).
Please click on an image to view a larger photograph, and find out which crag they were taken at.

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