Pietra
di Luna is the comprehensive guidebook
that covers the majority of the sports climbing, rock
climbing and bouldering in Sardinia. All the crags detailed
above are included in this guidebook.
Arrampicare
a Cala Gonone is the comprehensive guidebook
for the sports climbing around Cala Gonone. It also
includes information about Monte Oddeu and Surtana in
Supramonte.
Big wall rock climbing at Supramonte
The area of Supramonte is situated between Dorgali and
Oliena is an isolated limestone plateau that is indented
with deep gorges and huge vertical walls. Therefore
it is not surprising that Supramonte offers some of
the best big wall, multi-pitch rock climbing on Sardinia.
These routes are up to 600m long with many routes between
200m to 300m long on good quality limestone rock.
Though these routes tend to be bolted, they are often
well spaced so it is advisable to bring some traditional
protection such as nuts and cams, and due to the length
of the routes to use duel ropes. By picking your crag
appropriately it is possible to rock climb in Supramonte
throughout the year.
Bouldering around Nuoro
To the west of Nuoro there are several excellent bouldering
areas close to the villages of Orani, Orotelli, Sarule
and Ollalai. Currently only the areas around Orani &
Ollalai have any boulder problems been recorded, which
are detailed in the Pietra di Luna guidebook. However
there is scope to develop many more, along with the
areas around Orotelli and Sarule. The main limiting
factor is that these boulders are on private land though
the local climbers are negotiating access; again further
information about this is available in the Pietra di
Luna guidebook.
The quality of the granite rock is superb though, which
is very rough with large crystals imbedded into it.
Ollalai is at an altitude of 1,100m making it ideal
to climb from spring right through the summer to the
autumn, where as Orani is at a much lower altitude and
offers ideal bouldering from the autumn through the
winter to spring. |