Rock climbing guidebooks
for Sardinia.
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Map of European Rock Climbing areas

Map of Sardinian Rock
Climbing areas
Rock Climbing in Cala Gonone
Rock Climbing around
Cagliari
Rock Climbing around
Iglesias and Domusnovas
Rock Climbing in Isili and Oristano
Rock Climbing around Nuoro and Cala Gonone
Rock Climbing in Ogliastra including Baunei & Jerzu
Rock Climbing around Sassari & northern Sardinia

Accommodation for Rock Climbers in Cala Gonone
How to get to Sardinia
Rock climbing guidebooks
for Sardinia

 

Rock Climbing and Sports Climbing in Cala Gonone

Cala Gonone has long been established as one of the main rock climbing areas in Sardinia and as such attracts many International visitors. Primarily the majority of the rock climbing here is single pitch sports routes, offering many different styles from slabs, steep walls and fierce overhangs on hard limestone rock.

There is some multi-pitch rock climbing to be found in Cala Gonone, though this tends to be easier routes (up to French 6a), which are not bolted at all, and are therefore protected using traditional nuts and cams. However there are exceptions to this notably; Grotta dei Colombi crag that has fully bolted routes up to 210m long in the 6b-6c grade range; and La Poltrona crag where all the routes are fully bolted across a wide range of grades.

Map of the rock climbing and sports climbing areas around Cala Gonone.
 
 
Rock climbing and sports climbing around Cala Gonone in Sardinia
No Region
Type of Climbing
Max Height
No of Routes
Grade Range
Single or Multi-pitch
1 Cala Cartoe
Sport
10m
16
5a to 7a
Single
2 Margheddie
Sport/Trad
150m
41
4b to 8a
Both
3 Grotta dei Colombi
Sport/Trad
210m
26
VI to 8b+
Both
4 Biddiriscottai
Sport
80m
46
5b to 8a+
Both
5 Arcadio (Monte Irveri)
Sport
55m
54
5c to 7c+
Both
6 Alveare
Sport
30m
13
6b+ to 7b
Single
7 P. Serendippo (Budinetto)
Sport/Trad
80m
32
3c to 6c
Both
8 Budino
Sport/Trad
220m
18
3 to 6a+
Both
9 La Poltrona
Sport
165m
61
4b to 8a
Both
10 S'atta Ruia (Dorgali)
Sport
50m
70
5a to 8a
Both
11 Falesia Scheel
Sport
30m
7
6b to 7b+
Single
12 I Tornanti
Sport
20m
36
5c to 7b+
Single
13 Aguaplano
Sport
35m
11
6b+ to 7c+
Both
14 Ziu Martine
Sport
30m
7
6c+ to 8a
Single
15 Cala e Codula Fuili
Sport
70m
173
5a to 8b+
Both
16 Fuili nuova
Sport
20m
13
5b to 6c
Single
17 Buchi Arta
Sport
30m
34
5b to 7a
Single
18 Cala Luna
Sport
75m
56
5c to 8b+
Both
  Monte Bonacoa
Sport
30m
33
5c to 6b+
Single
Rock climbing guidebook for Cala Gonone

Arrampicare a Cala Gonone is the comprehensive rock climbing guidebook for Cala Gonone.

Buy from our shop.


Accommodation for rock climbers in Cala Gonone

Book here apartments
for rock climbers
in Cala Gonone.

The above information has been extracted from the " Arrampicare a Cala Gonone" guidebook that is available to buy from our shop. This guidebook details over 800 sports and trad routes in Cala Gonone and its surrounding area. There is another guidebook available that also covers the majority of the crags detailed above called "Pietra di Luna" by Maurizio Oviglia. Though slightly older it still covers the main crags of Cala Gonone and also details the vast majority of the other rock climbing areas to be found in Sardinia. Both of these guidebooks for Cala Gonone can be bought from our shop.

There are many other excellent rock climbing areas near Cala Gonone such as the bouldering near Nuoro and big wall multi-pitch routes up to 400m long to the west of Dorgali called Supramonte. To the south of Cala Gonone is the Ogliastra region of Sardinia where there are many single pitch sports routes around Jerzu and Baunei.

Logistics

For the majority of the routes a single 60m rope and up to 12 quickdraws will be sufficient. For those looking to climb the long multi-pitch routes, then duel ropes and a full lead rock with nuts and friends is advisable.

The best time to go rock climbing in Cala Gonone is from the autumn through to the spring as it is just too hot in the summer months. Click here for further information on how to get to Cala Gonone.

 
Rock climbing photograph of Cala Luna crag in Sardinia
Rock climbing photograph of La Poltrona crag in Sardinia
Click on the images above to view a larger photograph. These photographs illustrate the fantastic rock climbing to be found in at Cala Gonone.
   

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