Single-pitch
sport climbs.
The cliffs around Jerzu have been developed since 1997 and continue
to offer superb year-round steep limestone climbing, mostly
at grade 6b or higher. Along with these established crags, the
recent new developments at Ulassai and around Baunei mean that
Ogliastra now has a full range of climbs, from slabs to very
steep routes across all grades, including a reasonable number
of 5's and easy 6's, as well as harder routes, all on fantastic
rough limestone. The publication of the map guide to Ogliastra
brought together many, but not all, of these recent developments
and increases the number of single-pitch sports routes in the
area from the 325 in Pietra di Luna guidebook to 580 routes
in the Ogliastra
map guidebook.
What is particularly important to note is that the crags are
at all elevations, from sea level to 1100m, and all orientations,
so that, whatever your grade - 5's or 8+ - or preferred style
of climbing, you can climb all year round, even in July, the
hottest month. Jerzu, and Ulassai are suitable during these
hottest months, whilst the crags at Baunei are ideal in the
cooler months.
Multi-pitch bolted climbs
The famous Aguglia pinnacle at Cala Goloritze offers some
of the easiest multi-pitch routes in the area, going from
6c max/5c obligatory. Pay close attention to the "obligatory"
grade, which is the grade you have to be able to climb even
when the bolt is below you...and study carefully the "S"
grades in the Pietra
di Luna guidebook which give a good indication
of the seriousness of the routes. At Punta Giradili routes
such as Mediterraneo, 240m long at max 7a+/6b obligatory and
Wolfgang Güllich, 400m long at max 7a/6b obligatory have
long been modern classics, though the bolts are well spaced!
There are hard (grade 7 obligatory) routes on Giradili as
well as Monte Ginnircu just next door, where you abseil into
the multi-pitch routes. Thankfully, if you're not cruising
7a, there are multi-pitch routes for you at Serra Oseli (though
no guidebook is available), as well as at the Aguglia.
Bouldering
Near Lanusei at an altitude of 1,000m are the woods of Selene
with their granite boulders, which offer good bouldering in
the lower grades during the summer. Near Lotzorai, on the
coast, there is also some good granite bouldering. The limestone
boulders at Serra Oseli continue to be developed by locals,
including a recent Font 7b+ problem.
Deep Water Soloing (DWS)
With summer water temperatures up to 24°C, Sardinia is
ideal for DWS. The best DWS is found at the Ogliastra end
of the Gulf of Orosei, rather than the Cala Gonone end.
Ogliastra is Sardinia's wildest and least developed province,
on the east coast of the island, 90 minutes' drive south of
Cala Gonone and 2 1/2 hours' drive from the island's 3 main
airports of Alghero,
Olbia
and Cagliari.
Thanks has to go to Peter Herold who has contributed much
of this text and supplied many of the photographs. Peter with
his wife Ann run the Lemon
house. This is a guesthouse for climbers, cyclists
and walkers based in Lotzorai, Ogliastra. |
