| The
above information (with French grades) has been extracted
from the current rock climbing guidebook for Finale Ligure,
called Finale
007. This excellent guidebook can be bought
from our
shop.
The variety of rock climbing to
be found in Finale Ligure is huge, from slabs, smooth
and pocketed vertical walls, to steep imposing overhangs
across a wide range of grades. The routes are mainly
single pitch, though there are some up to 3 & 4
pitches long. However the exception is the Bric Pianarella
crag where the routes are up to 250m long. Some of the
more popular rock climbing areas is described below:
- The most impressive has to be Bric
Pianarella, the so-called "big wall" with
routes up to 250m long. There are over 60 routes on
this crag, up to 9-pitches long ranging from 4+ to
7b. A classic of the crag is Grimonett, 240m long
5+, 5, 5, 5, 5+, 6b, 6a, 6b, 4+ and is given 3 stars.
- The single most extensive crag is Rocca
di Perti with over 300 routes. The rock climbing is
mainly single pitch routes though there are also plenty
of multi-pitch routes up to 150m long.
- The area of Rian Cornei is a concentrated
collection of 19 different crags. Here there are over
500 routes to choose from, which are mainly single
pitch. This area is huge, harsh, wild, rough, and
splendid and therefore not your "standard"
sports climbing area but is a real adventure.
- Monte Cucco is another crag which offers
both single and multi-pitch routes (up to 100m long)
and there are over 260 routes to choose from.
- Further along the coast is Capo Noli,
which offers climbing some great sea cliff rock climbing
with over 30 routes. This area is also a very popular
place for deep water soloing.
Outside of Finale Ligure there are also many other
excellent rock climbing areas.
OltreFinale
- Towards the French border there are a series of valleys
running into the hills behind the sea. Over the years
these have become known as the OltreFinale crags, which
as the name suggest are the alternative crags to Finale
Ligure. In total there are 5 valleys, 80 climbing sectors
and hundreds of routes across a wide range of grades
on solid limestone rock. The climbing is mainly single
pitch sports routes though there are some bolted multi-pitch
routes up to 170m long and many excellent boulder problems.
Muzzerone
- Situated between Sestri Levante & La Spezia this
area offers a wide choice of fantastic sea cliff rock
climbing. The routes range from single pitch routes
on slabs to steep and overhanging multi-pitch routes
across a wide range of grades. Here the rock climbing
is on very good quality limestone rock that has recently
been re-bolted.
Andonno - Close to French border is
the village of Andonno, which is another great rock
climbing area. There are over 200 routes here, mainly
single pitch with some multi pitch routes up to 90m
long on good quality limestone. Just outside the village
there is also a bouldering area. |