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ock climbing guidebooks
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The best places to go rock climbing in Italy

 

Map of European Rock Climbing Areas

Rock Climbing around Genova & Liguria
Rock climbing at Finale Ligure
Finale Ligure - Logistics, travel & accommodation
Rock Climbing at Muzzerone
Rock Climbing at OltreFinale

Map of Northern Italy Rock Climbing Areas
Map of Southern Italy and Sicily Rock Climbing Areas
Rock climbing in
The Dolomites
Rock Climbing at Arco
Rock Climbing around Lake Como & Lecco
Rock Climbing in Sardinia
Rock climbing in Sicily
Rock Climbing in Southern Italy
Rock Climbing in Trieste

Rock Climbing guidebooks for Italy

The new 2008 edition of the Finale Ligure guidebook, called Finale 007


The Finale 007
guidebook is now available to buy
from our shop.

This is a NEW guidebook, published in March 2008, and details all the sports climbing & rock climbing to be found in Finale Ligure.

Finale Ligure Logistics - All you need to know!

Finale Ligure logistics - travel, accommodation & the best time of the year to rock climb

How to get to Finale, the type of accommodation available, and the best time of year to rock climb at Finale.

Click here
for more info.

 
 
Rock climbing at Finale Ligure

The rock climbing at Finale Ligure offers fantastic, diverse sports climbing of great quality and character, with over 20 crags offering over 2000 routes spread over dozens of sectors. There is everything from single pitch sports routes to multi-pitch bolted routes up to 250m long on good quality limestone rock, which is generally well bolted. The rock climbing is situated in a succession of valleys in the hills behind Finale Ligure, and covers an area of 10 square kilometres. The area is very accessible being only a 30 minute drive from Genova airport, along with plenty of accommodation that you would normally find in a popular tourist area. See our logistics page for more information, including the best time of the year to visit to go rock climbing in Finale Ligure.

Map of the rock climbing areas around
Finale Ligure
Rock climbing at Muzzerone
No Crag
Total No of Routes
Total number at this grade
Single or Multi-pitch
3
4
5
6
7
8
1 Caprazoppa
65
2
7
14
37
5
0
Single
2 Rocce dell'Orera
18
2
3
8
5
0
0
Single
3 Rocca di Perti
312
1
2
53
181
63
12
Both
4 Monte Sordo
104
0
2
15
68
17
2
Both
5 La Parete Dimenticata
55
0
0
10
34
11
0
Single
6 San Antonino
33
0
0
6
19
8
0
Single
7 Bric Scimarco
78
0
1
7
56
14
0
Both
8 Bric Pianarella
64
See detail below
Both
9 Pian Marino
39
2
3
18
16
0
0
Single
10 Bric del Frate
72
0
0
11
51
10
0
Both
11 Bric Grigio
39
0
0
5
17
14
3
Single
12 Bric Spaventaggi
123
0
2
10
84
27
0
Both
13 Monte Cucco
264
1
4
26
154
72
7
Both
14 Bastionata di Boragni
160
0
2
21
82
51
4
Both
15 Rian Cornei
542
0
4
77
404
56
1
Both
16 Val di Nava
74
0
2
9
42
16
5
Both
17 Rocca degli Uccelli
23
0
0
5
8
8
2
Both
18 Lacrema
29
0
0
3
14
12
0
Single
19 Case del Vacche
33
0
0
5
22
6
0
Single
20 Rocca di Corno
96
0
4
18
62
12
0
Both
21 Le Manie
20
0
0
0
3
13
4
Single
The above information (with French grades) has been extracted from the current rock climbing guidebook for Finale Ligure, called Finale 007. This excellent guidebook can be bought from our shop.

The variety of rock climbing to be found in Finale Ligure is huge, from slabs, smooth and pocketed vertical walls, to steep imposing overhangs across a wide range of grades. The routes are mainly single pitch, though there are some up to 3 & 4 pitches long. However the exception is the Bric Pianarella crag where the routes are up to 250m long. Some of the more popular rock climbing areas is described below:

  • The most impressive has to be Bric Pianarella, the so-called "big wall" with routes up to 250m long. There are over 60 routes on this crag, up to 9-pitches long ranging from 4+ to 7b. A classic of the crag is Grimonett, 240m long 5+, 5, 5, 5, 5+, 6b, 6a, 6b, 4+ and is given 3 stars.
  • The single most extensive crag is Rocca di Perti with over 300 routes. The rock climbing is mainly single pitch routes though there are also plenty of multi-pitch routes up to 150m long.
  • The area of Rian Cornei is a concentrated collection of 19 different crags. Here there are over 500 routes to choose from, which are mainly single pitch. This area is huge, harsh, wild, rough, and splendid and therefore not your "standard" sports climbing area but is a real adventure.
  • Monte Cucco is another crag which offers both single and multi-pitch routes (up to 100m long) and there are over 260 routes to choose from.
  • Further along the coast is Capo Noli, which offers climbing some great sea cliff rock climbing with over 30 routes. This area is also a very popular place for deep water soloing.

Outside of Finale Ligure there are also many other excellent rock climbing areas.

OltreFinale - Towards the French border there are a series of valleys running into the hills behind the sea. Over the years these have become known as the OltreFinale crags, which as the name suggest are the alternative crags to Finale Ligure. In total there are 5 valleys, 80 climbing sectors and hundreds of routes across a wide range of grades on solid limestone rock. The climbing is mainly single pitch sports routes though there are some bolted multi-pitch routes up to 170m long and many excellent boulder problems.

Muzzerone - Situated between Sestri Levante & La Spezia this area offers a wide choice of fantastic sea cliff rock climbing. The routes range from single pitch routes on slabs to steep and overhanging multi-pitch routes across a wide range of grades. Here the rock climbing is on very good quality limestone rock that has recently been re-bolted.

Andonno - Close to French border is the village of Andonno, which is another great rock climbing area. There are over 200 routes here, mainly single pitch with some multi pitch routes up to 90m long on good quality limestone. Just outside the village there is also a bouldering area.

 


Unknown climber on Peace, 7a+ at Rocca di Corno crag.

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