Rock
climbing routes in Paklenica
In
total there are over 400 routes in Paklenica on superb limestone
rock. There is everything from single pitch sports routes
to big wall rock climbing up the 350m face of Anica kuk (up
to 11-pitch routes). Therefore Paklenica is ideal for everyone
from the absolute beginner to the most experienced rock climber.
With the exception of Anica kuk that generally faces north,
the vast majority of the other crags face either
east or west meaning you can always be climbing in the sun
or shade, depending upon your preference!
Single
Pitch Sports Routes
From the car park a path leads up through a narrow section
of the gorge know as Klanci. This is where
the majority of the single pitch sports routes are and the
start of these can be reached inside 5 minutes. The routes
are located on both sides of the valley, on small independent
faces and steep over hangs, at the base of the peaks of Kuk
od Skradelin, Cuk and Debeli kuk. In this area there are over
100 routes between F5a to F8b+.
Multi
Pitch Routes
The majority of the multi pitch routes are located on the
faces of Anica kuk, Debeli kuk, Cuk, and Mali Cuk. Particularly
on Anica kuk the atmosphere is of big wall traditional rock
climbing, requiring the placing of natural gear such as friends
and nuts, though the classic lines have been re-equipped with
bolts.
Anica kuk is the classic crag of the valley,
with its 350m high NW face, and only a 45-minute walk from
the car. This crag alone has over 100 multi pitch routes,
from F4 to F8-, with climbs up to 11-pitches long. Click
here for a photo showing 3 of the classic routes
of the crag.
Debeli kuk is also a classic crag with the
added bonus of being nearer the car park! The climbs are shorter,
though they can still be up to 6-pitches long. |
