The National Park of Paklenica is at the heart of Croatian rock climbing and is known as one of the top European rock climbing areas. Paklenica is a place of outstanding natural beauty, situated close to the sea near Starigrad-Paklenica.
The rock climbing is very varied from single pitch sports routes to big wall rock climbing routes up to 350m long, catering for the absolute beginners to the most experienced rock climber. In total there are over 340 routes here on good quality limestone rock, of which the majority of the routes are bolted.
There are over 170 single pitch sports routes mainly located at the entrance to the park, only a few minutes walk from the car park. The rest of the routes at Paklenica are multi-pitch with a mixture of pure bolted routes to trad routes requiring the placement of nuts and cams. The classic Anica kuk face has some big wall multi-pitch climbing up to 350m long, of which a photograph is shown below. Further information about the rock climbing routes in Paklenica is available here.
|The Different Style of Routes to be found at Paklenica|
|Style of Climbing||Total No. of Routes||Up to 4c||5a to 5c||6a to 6b||6b+ to 6c+||7a to 7b||7b+ to 7c+||Over 8a|
|Single-pitch sports routes||176||17||35||63||32||15||8||6|
|Multi-pitch sports routes||125||13||17||39||27||12||14||3|
|Multi-pitch trad routes||44||25||3||8||5||3||0||0|
Paklenica is reached from the small coastal town of Starigrad-Paklenica, which is approximately 46Km from the tourist town of Zadar. The National Park is well sign posted off the coastal road. Further information about getting to Paklenica is available here.
Climbers are required to purchase a climbing pass, available at the park reception. The prices for 2009 are; 3-day pass is 60 Kuna (just over £6); 5-day pass is 90 Kuna (just over £9). It should be noted this pass only allows climbing within the designated climbing area. Further information about the different types of routes at Paklenica, from single pitch sports routes in Klanci to the many multi-pitch classics on Anica kuk, is available here. There are more than 340 routes to choose from.
The classic north face of Anica kuk, where the routes are up to 350m long.
The best time of the year to visit
Paklenica for rock climbing is from April through to
late October. The winter can be very windy and wet,
and while in the high summer it can get very hot, though
there is always shade to be found in the sports climbing
area of Klanci to the north face of Anica kuk.
Every year there is an International Speed Climbing Competition held at the end of April and beginning of May. Further information about this speed climbing competition is available here.