Peak Limestone South Guidebook

by Mark on March 11, 2018

Peak Limestone South GuidebookThe Peak District is the most popular climbing area in the UK with many thousands of routes across a wide range of climbing styles.  A new definitive guidebook for the southern limestone crags has just been published centred around Matlock.  Called Peak Limestone South, it describes all the trad climbing and sport climbing as well as some bouldering.

High Tor offers big multi-pitch trad routes from HVS to E6, and is classed as the ultimate trad playground of the area with many classic routes.  The routes are typically vertical or off-vertical and often feature exciting runouts in exposed positions.  However Matlock does have friendlier trad crags at places such as Wildcat providing many mid-grade classics, and Willersley Castle with its shady routes.  Other trad areas covered in the guidebook are the picturesque areas of Dovedale and Manifold Valley crags including Beeston Tor.

However it is the limestone sport climbing venues that have seen the explosion of routes in the southern Peaks.  These venues tend to be old quarries around Matlock and Wirksworth that offer some of the best sport climbing areas in the Peak.  Crags such as Masson Lees, Hall Dale and Intake Quarry are the largest venues with routes across a wide range of grades from F5’s to F8’s.  However there are over 15 other sport venues are covered in the guidebook ranging from reclusive crags with just a few routes to more comprehensive and established crags.

In total the Peak Limestone South guidebook covers 50 different crags and describes over 2,000 routes across a wide range of grades for both trad and sport climbing. All the routes are shown on colour photo topos, with different colours used to differentiate between trad and sport routes.

Buy the Peak Limestone South guidebook for only £25.00 plus P&P.

Previous post:

Next post: