The mountains of Corsica are a fantastic place to go rock climbing. These mountains provide a huge range of traditional multi-pitch rock climbing on coarse, weathered granite rock that is equal to anything you would find at Mello or Valle dell Orco in Italy. Many of these multi-pitch routes provide a great alpine adventure with the largest areas being at Bavella and Restonica.
Bavella provides the largest number of multi-pitch routes in Corsica and is located in the south east part of the island. The Bavella massif is a series of granite towers (called Aiguilles) along with a large number of smaller rock faces in the valleys. Here there are many routes between 100m and 350m long, though the complicated approaches on some routes will mean this is a full day of adventure.
Gorges de la Restonica is a valley that stretches for nearly 10km out of Corti in central Corsica, with a combination of both limestone and granite rock. However the multi-pitch routes tend to be on the granite peaks that tower over the mountain lakes. There are numerous classic routes here between 200m and 300m long with approaches that are less complicated than other areas such as Bavella.
Capu d’Ortu is located on the west side of Corsica near Porto. The routes on these granite faces are up to 500m long and include some of the hardest routes in Corsica. Many of the routes are graded TD or ED and the no bolt policy of this area makes them a committing adventure.
The Grandes voies de Corse guidebook describes 110 of the best multi-pitch traditional routes on Corsica, across a wide range of grades. It covers 12 main areas including the crags at Bavella, Restonica and Capu d’Ortu. The guidebook is packed with many stunning photographs that show the fantastic multi-pitch climbing found in Corsica, and is in English and French text throughout.
Buy the Grandes voies de Corse Guidebook for £25.95 plus P&P, which represents a saving of over 10%. This offer expires on 20th May.