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Guidebook for the granite rock climbing at La Pedriza

La Pedriza es Calada Deportiva is the comprehensive guidebook for all the granite rock climbing at Padriza.
Buy this guidebook from our shop.

 
     

Guidebook for the limestone rock climbing at Patones

Patones Y Alrededores is the comprehensive guidebook for all the limestone rock climbing at Patones.
Buy this guidebook from our shop.

 

Rock Climbing Around Madrid

Around 50 miles to the north of Madrid there are 2 excellent rock climbing areas; the granite slabs at La Pedriza; and the steep limestone at Patones.

Located near the village of Torrelaguna is the limestone area of Patones, which is all about steep single pitch sports routes. The style of the rock climbing is everything from pocketed vertical walls to huge roofs. Here there are around 800 routes, which are spread over 5 main crags (the largest being Ponton de la Oliva), with the majority of the routes are in the F6a to F6c+ grade range. There is a definitive guidebook for this area call "Patones Y Alrededores", which is available to buy from our shop.

La Pedriza is located just north of the village of Manzanares El Real. Here the rock climbing is all about long granite slabs, which requires precise footwork and balance. The scope of the slab climbing is huge with a mixture of sports and traditional routes, ranging from single pitch to multi-pitch routes over 200m long across a wide grade range. The walk-ins to the routes is anything from 30 minutes to several hours and often the climbing will be at an altitude of well over 1,000m. Hence the granite rock climbing around La Pedriza definitely has a great air of adventure about it. There are many hundreds of routes at Padriza and many of them are detailed in the guidebook called "La Pedriza es Calada Deportiva", which can be bought from our shop.

Map of the rock climbing areas
around Madrid
Rock Climbing Areas Around Madrid
No Crag Name
Altitude
Type of Rock
Single or Multi-pitch
Max Route Length
1 Patones
N/N
Limestone
Mainly single
40m
2 La Cabrera
1,520m
Granite
Both
215m
3 Penas del Tejo
1,417m
Granite
Both
65m
4 Mondalindo
1,656m
Granite
Both
135m
5 La Pedriza
1,073m
Granite
Both
200m
6 El Boalo
1,437m
Granite
Both
110
7 Pena Retuerta
1,428m
Granite
Both
40m
8 El Penotillo
2,125m
Granite
Multi
135m
9 Emburriaderos
N/N
Granite
Single
28m
10 Penalara
2,100m
Granite
Both
55m
11 Alto del Telegrafo
1,970m
Granite
Single
27m
12 Majadilla Verde
1,520m
Granite
Both
40m
13 Pena la Casa
650m
Granite
Single
10m
14 Pena Blanca
1,662m
Granite
Both
65m
15 Riscos de la Cueva
N/N
Granite
Single
18m
16 Abantos
1,480m
Granite
Both
55m
17 La Berzosa
1,017m
Granite
Single
15m
18 Galapagar
835m
Granite
Single
12m
19 Zarzalejo
1,350m
Granite
Single
40m
20 Pantano de San Juan
683m
Granite
Single
35m

Click for Madrid, Spain Forecast
 
There are many other granite rock climbing areas around Madrid, as detailed on the map, with the other 2 main crags being La Cabrera and El Boalo. At La Cabrera there are over 370 routes.

The best time of the year to go rock climbing around La Pedriza or Patones is the spring and autumn. Though most of the routes at La Pedriza are bolted it is advisable to take traditional gear such as nuts and friends, and a pair of 50m ropes due to the route lengths and mountainous environment. For the climbing at Patones at least a 60m single rope is advisable, plus around 12-14 quickdraws.

 

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