Italian Alps and Northern Italy Guidebooks

The Climbing without Frontiers guidebook covers the sports climbing in southwest Slovenia (including Osp), Trieste in Italy and Istria in Croatia. In total there are 24 different crags and in excess of 1,000 routes to choose from, across a wide range of grades that will suit climbers of all abilities. Some of the main crags covered in this guidebook are; Osp, Misja Pec, & Crni Kal in Slovenia; Napoleonica & Val Rosandra in Trieste, Italy; and Limski kanal, Dvigrad & Rovinj in Croatia. All the routes are identified on clear topo diagrams with French grades. Published in April 2009 this guidebook is in Slovenian, Croatian, Italian, German and English text throughout. More Information

This guidebook describes some of the major bouldering areas in northern Italy; including around Bolzano in the Dolomites; Val di Mello and Cimaganda on the border with Switzerland; around Torino; and in Liguria around Genova. In total more than 30 separate bouldering areas are documented detailing over 4,000 bouldering problems across a wide range of grades. All the problems are illustrated on photo-topos with Fontainebleau grades used throughout. Published in April 2007 this guidebook is written in Italian, German and English text throughout. More Information

This is the definitive guidebook describing the bouldering in Valtellina, the widest valley in the Alps, which is located in the Lombard region of northern Italy bordering Switzerland. This guidebook covers the world class bouldering found at Valmasino and Val di Mello, the locations of the annual Melloblocco festival. It also describes the bouldering at Cimaganda, Prestone, Val Dodengo, San Cassiano, Selvapiana, Spriana, Bormio and Masso D’Arquino. In total more than 2800 bouldering problems are described in 39 different areas. All the problems are illustrated on colour photo-topos. Published in April 2012 this guidebook is written in Italian, German and English text throughout. More Information

The Schweiz Plaisir Sud guidebook describes the rock climbing and sport climbing at grades up to F6c in the Southern Swiss Alps. The guidebook covers the area around Bellinzona, plus areas in Italy such as Lake Como, Aosta and Torino. In total 81 separate crags are detailed ranging from single pitch sport routes to long alpine style multi-pitch routes. The crag topo's are very clear, with all the routes given French grades (each pitch if appropriate) along with any extra gear required for the multi-pitch routes such as nuts and cams. Published in 2011 this guidebook is written in German, French and Italian text throughout. More Information

This is the definitive guidebook that covers all the Trad and sport climbing in the Orco Valley in the Gran Paradiso National Park in North West Italy. The Orco valley is situated to the north of Turin and west of Milan, and is a very popular area with easy access along with excellent multi-pitch Trad and sport climbing. Published in September 2010 the guidebook is in English text throughout. More Information

Lario Rock Falesie is the definitive guidebook that covers all the sport climbing on crags and walls situated between Lecco and Como, including the Grigne massif. The mild weather, mitigated by Lake Como, the relative low altitude and the abundance of limestone walls make this area one of the most popular in northern Italy. Concentrated around the town of Lecco on the shore of Lake Como, this guidebook details 99 separate crags and 1,000’s of routes at all grades. The majority of the routes are single pitch along though many bolted multi-pitch routes are also included. A separate guidebook detailing the many longer multi-pitch routes (up to 500m long) for this area will be published soon, called Lario Rock Pareti. Published in June 2011 this guidebook is written in Italian and English text throughout. All the routes are illustrated on clear colour topo’s along with French grades. More Information

This guidebook describes the traditional and bolted granite routes in the Masino-Bregaglia-Disgrazia areas on the Italian-Swiss border. The guidebook concentrates on long multi-pitch mountaineering rock routes, rather than the sport routes covers by the Valtellina, Valchiavenna, Engadina guidebook that covers a similar area. Published in July 2007 all the routes are shown on a mixture of colour photo topos and hand-drawn topos, and is in Italian text throughout. More Information

The guidebook covers the sport routes and multi-pitch routes from the Val Chiavenna valley through Valtellina to the Stelvio pass. Generally the routes described are within the valley floor and/or at a low altitude. The higher altitude routes in this area are covered in the Solo Granite guidebook. Many thousands of routes are described of which the vast majority are bolted. Published in May 2011, this guidebook is in Italian and English text throughout. More Information

This is a selective guidebook describing 60 routes in the Sarca Valley near Arco, to the north of Lake Garda. All of the routes are multi-pitch and are typically between 200m and 300m long, with some up to 700m long. The guidebook concentrates on routes graded between F5 and F7, with many routes in the sixth grade. Published in October 2011, this guidebook is in English throughout. More Information

This guidebook covers all the long multi-pitch rock climbing routes in the Arco to Sarca valley, near Lake Garda in Italy, detailing many classic and modern routes. In total 32 separate crags are detailed, including all the crags at Piccolo Dain (with routes up to 450m long), Monte Brento (with many routes between 800m & 1,000m long) and Monte Casale (with routes up to 1,400m long). Many of these routes definitely require a mountaineering approach along with the placing of natural protection such as Cams and nuts More Information