Ogliastra is perhaps unique in Sardinia in offering all types of climbing from, single pitch sport routes, multi-pitch sports routes up to 500m long, deep water soloing (DWS) and bouldering. Some of the crags are in the mountains at over 1,000m altitude, which mean you can always find cool, shady crags in the winter as well as sunny low-level crags in the winter! Each of these areas has seen rapid developments over the last couple of years with the potential for much more.
List of the rock climbing areas in the Ogliastra region of Sardinia
|No||Crag||Type of Climbing|
|1||Passaggia per Chitur||Single Pitch|
|2||Il Castella||Single and Multi-pitch|
|3||Palazza d'inverra||Single Pitch|
|4||Isala del Tesora||Single Pitch|
|5||Terra dei Venti||Single Pitch|
|6||Cascata Lecarci||Single and Multi-pitch|
|8||Gola di San Giargia||Single Pitch|
|11||Mante Tanneri||Single Pitch|
|14||Parta di S. Maria||Single Pitch|
|15||Mante Scaine||Single Pitch|
|16||Braccia di Ferra||Single Pitch|
|17||Villaggia Gallica||Single Pitch|
|18||Creuza de Ma||Single Pitch|
|19||Campa dei Miracali||Single Pitch|
|20||The Lemon House||Single Pitch|
|23||Monte Ginnircu||Single and Multi-pitch|
|24||Cala Goloritze||Single and Multi-pitch|
The cliffs around Jerzu have been developed since 1997 and continue to offer superb year-round steep limestone climbing, mostly at grade F6b or higher. Along with these established crags, the recent new developments at Ulassai and around Baunei mean that Ogliastra now has a full range of climbs. These range from slabs to very steep routes across all grades, including a reasonable number of F5's and easy F6's, as well as harder routes, all on fantastic rough limestone. The Pietra di Luna guidebook is the comprehensive guidebook for all the sport routes in Ogliastra region.
What is particularly important to note is that the crags are at all elevations, from sea level to 1100m, and all orientations, so that, whatever your grade - F5's to F8+ - or preferred style of climbing, you can climb all year round, even in July, the hottest month. Jerzu, and Ulassai are suitable during these hottest months, whilst the crags at Baunei are ideal in the cooler months.
The Baunei region is the best area for multi-pitch routes in Ogliastra. Here you will find the famous Aguglia pinnacle at Cala Goloritze offers some of the easiest multi-pitch routes in the area, going from F6c max/F5c obligatory. Pay close attention to the "obligatory" grade in the guidebook, which is the grade you have to be able to climb even when the bolt is below you. At Punta Giradili routes such as Mediterraneo, 240m long at max F7a+/F6b obligatory and Wolfgang Güllich, 400m long at max 7a/6b obligatory have long been modern classics, though the bolts are well spaced! There are hard (grade F7 obligatory) routes on Giradili as well as Monte Ginnircu just next door, where you abseil into the multi-pitch routes. Thankfully, if you're not cruising F7a, there are multi-pitch routes for you at Serra Oseli as well as at the Aguglia. The comprehensive guidebook that covers the multi-pitch routes in Ogliastra is called “Sardinia – Trad and Multi-Pitch Climbing Guidebook”, which is available to buy from our shop.
Near Lanusei at an altitude of 1,000m are the woods of Selene with their granite boulders, which offer good bouldering in the lower grades during the summer. Near Lotzorai, on the coast, there is also some good granite bouldering. The limestone boulders at Serra Oseli continue to be developed by locals, including a recent Font 7b+ problem.
The famous Aguglia pinnacle at Cala Goloritze offers some of the easiest multi-pitch routes in the area up to 165m long.
The above image is © www.peteranne.it
The Ogliastra region of Sardinia is also a great place to go mountain biking and walking. Discover more about mountain biking in Sardinia, with many great routes along cart and mule tracks left by shepherds and charcoal burners. Discover more about walking in Sardinia including the famous Selvaggio Blu Trek that follows the wild coastline of Ogliastra.
The Pietra di Luna rock climbing guidebook details all of the single pitch sport routes in the Ogliastra region of Sardinia.
The Trad and Multi-Pitch Rock Climbing Guidebook for Sardinia covers Ogliastra.
Buy these rock climbing guidebooks from our shop.