The rock climbing in central and southern Italy is not as famous as that in the north of the country. However there are hundreds of different crags that mainly offer single pitch sport routes on limestone rock. The more popular rock climbing areas are described below:
Within a 2-hour drive south of Rome towards Sperlonga there are over 50 crags and thousands of routes to choose from across all grades. The style of the rock climbing in this area falls into 2 distinct types.
The first are a series of inland single pitch sport routes around the towns of Frosinone and Roccasecca. There is not enough space to show all the crags on the map opposite, with some of the largest crags being Collepardo and Supino. The second are series of sea cliff crags around the towns of Latina, Terracina, Circeo, Sperlonga and Gaeta, where there are also some multi-pitch climbing.
The sport climbing in this area is generally single pitch routes on well bolted limestone rock. Including the area around Foggia, there are 9 major crags, all of which offer routes across all grades. The area is low lying and therefore is ideal from autumn through to the spring.
The rock climbing between Potenza and Cosenza is at an altitude of between 1,000m and 1,600m, and is therefore ideal for rock climbing during the summer. There is a good mixture between single pitch sport routes to long multi-pitch routes up to 350m long, across all grades. In total there are 11 major crags in this area.
To the east of Potenza is an extensive sandstone bouldering area, which is at an altitude 300m. The boulders are in woods making this an ideal destination throughout the year.
Just outside of the capital Palermo is Monte Pellegrino, described as the most important rock climbing area in southern Italy. The limestone crags offer everything from single pitch sport routes and multi-pitch bolted routes over 200m long. To the north of Palermo is Monte Gallo which offers big wall bolted routes up to 370m long. The tourist resort of San Vito is also close to here that offers the best single pitch sport routes in Sicily in a great coastal location. The crags around Monti Climiti, near Siracusa, in the southeast of Sicily, offer single and multi-pitch routes up to 140m long.
Rock climbing in Sicily is not for the faint hearted though it does offer a great sense of adventure. Due to the relative poor road infrastructure compared with the rest of Italy and the great distances involved it is necessary to stay at least a week. However you will be assured to be away from the crowds and enjoy everything from big wall multi-pitch rock climbing to single pitch sport routes. The ideal time to visit is from autumn right through to spring. The Di Roccia di Sole - Sicily rock climbing guidebook, which describes all the sport routes on the island of Sicily is available to buy from our shop.
Around Naples there is some excellent rock climbing that are ideal for a winter sun rock climbing holiday. The area has a classic Mediterranean climate making climbing enjoyable from autumn through the winter and into the spring.
To the south of Naples is the Sorrento Peninsula there is plenty of good quality rock climbing, mainly situated on the south coast around Amalfi. The vast majority of the routes are single pitch sport routes though there are some multi-pitch routes as well, all on limestone rock. The climbing here is generally at a low altitude with some routes straight off the beach. The guidebook that covers this area is called Malopasso, and is available to buy from our shop.
To the north of Naples around the towns of Gaeta, Circeo, Sperlonga and Moneta there is some fantastic sea cliff climbing. These steep limestone sea cliffs mainly offer bolted multi-pitch sport climbing. The Gaeta, Cireo and Sperlonga Guidebook and the Rome South guidebook covers this area and are available to buy from our shop.
The Di Roccia di Sole - Climbing in Sicily Guidebook covers all the major rock climbing areas in Sicily.
Buy this guidebook from our shop.