Finale Climbing is the comprehensive guidebook covering the rock climbing and sport climbing at Finale Ligure.
Buy this Finale Climbing guidebook from our shop.
Rock climbing at Finale Ligure
The rock climbing at Finale Ligure offers fantastic, diverse sport climbing of great quality and character, with around 4,000 routes to choose from on white limestone rock. The rock climbing is situated in a succession of valleys in the hills behind Finale Ligure, and covers an area of 10 square kilometres. This huge deep green landscape can be harsh, wild, rough, and splendid and therefore not your "standard" sport climbing area but is a real adventure.
Crags of Finale Ligure | ||||||||
No | Crag | Total No of Routes | Number of routes in grade range | |||||
3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | |||
1 | Centocorde | 23 | 0 | 2 | 16 | 5 | 0 | 0 |
2 | Caprazoppa | 72 | 2 | 8 | 19 | 37 | 6 | 0 |
3 | Rocce dell'Orera | 33 | 4 | 5 | 16 | 8 | 0 | 0 |
4 | Paretina di Finalborgo | 10 | 0 | 0 | 1 | 9 | 0 | 0 |
5 | Falesia Della Lucertola | 21 | 0 | 1 | 6 | 14 | 0 | 0 |
6 | Rocca di Perti | 449 | 3 | 6 | 98 | 257 | 71 | 14 |
7 | Falesia Di Billy Bud | 14 | 0 | 0 | 5 | 6 | 3 | 0 |
8 | Placca delle Case Valle | 17 | 0 | 0 | 3 | 13 | 1 | 0 |
9 | La Parete Dimenticata | 64 | 0 | 0 | 10 | 36 | 14 | 4 |
10 | Monte Sordo | 160 | 0 | 8 | 42 | 87 | 20 | 3 |
11 | Falesia Del Riccio | 20 | 0 | 0 | 6 | 13 | 1 | 0 |
12 | Pian Marino | 64 | 2 | 4 | 23 | 35 | 0 | 0 |
13 | Bric Scimarco | 85 | 0 | 1 | 7 | 60 | 17 | 0 |
14 | San Antonino | 74 | 0 | 0 | 9 | 52 | 13 | 0 |
15 | Tre Frati | 24 | 0 | 0 | 5 | 18 | 1 | 0 |
16 | Bric Grigio | 104 | 0 | 1 | 23 | 59 | 18 | 3 |
17 | Kattedrale | 16 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 7 | 9 | 0 |
18 | Sakrestia | 14 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 13 | 1 | 0 |
19 | Tibet | 9 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 2 | 5 | 2 |
20 | Konvento | 21 | 0 | 0 | 3 | 15 | 3 | 0 |
21 | Bric del Frate | 133 | 0 | 1 | 22 | 90 | 20 | 0 |
22 | Bric Pianarella | 95 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 |
23 | Bric Spaventaggi | 182 | 0 | 2 | 26 | 118 | 34 | 2 |
24 | Monte Cucco | 348 | 5 | 9 | 41 | 185 | 85 | 23 |
25 | Rian Cornei | 853 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 |
26 | Val di Nava | 118 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 |
27 | Bastionata di Boragni | 232 | 0 | 2 | 45 | 117 | 62 | 6 |
28 | Monte Tolla la Fornace | 10 | 0 | 0 | 1 | 4 | 4 | 1 |
29 | Lacrema | 42 | 0 | 0 | 3 | 21 | 15 | 3 |
30 | Bric Reseghe | 69 | 1 | 4 | 19 | 34 | 10 | 1 |
31 | Case del Vacche | 34 | 0 | 0 | 5 | 23 | 6 | 0 |
32 | Falesia Dello Scoiattolo | 11 | 0 | 0 | 3 | 8 | 0 | 0 |
33 | Rocca degli Uccelli | 49 | 0 | 0 | 5 | 26 | 15 | 3 |
34 | Rocca di Corno | 106 | 0 | 4 | 20 | 66 | 16 | 0 |
35 | Falesia Della Gazzella | 14 | 0 | 0 | 5 | 9 | 0 | 0 |
36 | Le Manie | 69 | 0 | 1 | 15 | 33 | 16 | 4 |
The rock at Finale Ligure is a marine limestone and the variety of rock climbing is huge, from slabs, smooth and pocketed vertical walls, to steep imposing overhangs and tufas. The style of climbing is technical, with the majority of the routes on vertical walls adorned with tiny pockets and crimps, demanding precise footwork and strong fingers.
The routes are mainly single pitch, though there are some bolted routes up to 3 and 4 pitches long. However, the exception is the Bric Pianarella crag, the so called “big wall”, where the routes are up to 250m long. The climbing at Finale consists of over 30 major crags that are split into over 200 different sectors. There are around 4,000 routes ranging from F3a to F8c+, usually with the crux near the end of the route. However, most of the crags have routes with grades between F6a and F7a.
Further along the coast is Capo Noli, which offers climbing some great sea cliff rock climbing that has a totally difference character to that of Finale. This area is also a very popular place for deep water soloing.
The area is very accessible being only a 30 minute drive from Genova airport, along with plenty of accommodation that you would normally find in a popular tourist area.
The different climbing areas are split into many different sectors and crags that face all directions. Hence it is possible to climb throughout the year, though the best time is spring and autumn. See our Finale climbing logistics page for more information.
The photograph shows an unknown climber on Peace, F7a+ at Rocca di Corno crag, one of the more popular crags in Finale Ligure.
Rock climbing guidebooks for Finale Ligure
There are currently 2 guidebooks that cover the rock climbing at Finale Ligure. They are called “Finale Climbing” and “Finale 51”, and both are very comprehensive. Buy guidebooks for Finale Ligure from our shop.
Outside of Finale Ligure there are also many other excellent rock climbing areas
OltreFinale - Towards the French border there are a series of valleys running into the hills behind the sea. Over the years these have become known as the OltreFinale crags, which as the name suggest are the alternative crags to Finale Ligure. In total there are 5 valleys, 80 climbing sectors and hundreds of routes across a wide range of grades on solid limestone rock. The climbing is mainly single pitch sport routes though there are some bolted multi-pitch routes up to 170m long and many excellent boulder problems.
Muzzerone - Situated between Sestri Levante & La Spezia this area offers a wide choice of fantastic sea cliff rock climbing. The routes range from single pitch routes on slabs to steep and overhanging multi-pitch routes across a wide range of grades. Here the rock climbing is on very good quality limestone rock that has recently been re-bolted.
Andonno - Close to French border is the village of Andonno, which is another great rock climbing area. There are over 200 routes here, mainly single pitch with some multi pitch routes up to 90m long on good quality limestone. Just outside the village there is also a bouldering area.
Finale Climbing is the comprehensive guidebook covering the rock climbing and sport climbing at Finale Ligure.
Buy this Finale Climbing guidebook from our shop.