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Rock climbing guidebooks for Italy.
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Rock climbing guidebooks for Italy.
Buy from our shop.
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Discover the best places to go rock climbing in Italy
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Bouldering at Val di Mello and Valmasino

Val di Mello and Valmasino are located in a high alpine valley, where thousands of boulders litter the valley floor.  These boulders are situated in lush alpine meadows and shaded woodlands and provide a good range of problems across all grades on beautiful granite rock.  Val di Mello has quickly become a top European bouldering venue complete with its own annual festival, Mello Blocco, which is help every spring. 

Generally the landings are very good, and the heights of the boulders are suitable for everyone, from perfectly amenable to definitely highball.  It is possible to boulder in these extensive areas throughout the year, though for Valmasino the best time is from October through to April, and for Val di Mello the best time is March through to November.  Being in a mountainous area, rain can occur at any time, though the boulders do dry quickly afterwards.

Val di Mello is often described as “Little Yosemite” due to its towering granite walls.  These walls provide many single pitch sport routes and multi-pitch trad routes that are equally famous and popular as the bouldering.  Find out more about rock climbing in Val di Mello…  The climbing at Val de Mello is covered in the Solo Granite Volume 1 guidebook and Schweiz Plaiser Sud guidebook.

Bouldering at Cimaganda and Prestone

Situated in Valchiavenna close to the border with Switzerland are the bouldering areas of Cimaganda and Prestone.  These bouldering areas are situated in alpine meadows including along the riverbed, and are very accessible from the road.  Again there is a good range of problems from easy to Font 8a on gneiss rock.  The boulders along the riverbed are smooth and frictionless, whilst those in the meadows are course and have excellent friction.

At an altitude of around 1000m, the best time of year to visit is from late spring to early autumn, with the boulders drying quickly after any rain.

Map of the bouldering areas at Val di Mello, Valmasino and Cimaganda, in northern Italy

Map of the bouldering areas at Val di Mello, Valmasino and Cimaganda, in northern Italy

Bouldering areas around Val di Mello, Valmasino and Cimaganda

No Crag Total No of problems Altitude Best Time of year to visit
1 Prestone 77 1000m October to May
2 Cimaganda 214 900m March to November
3 Val Bodengo 86 1200m April to October
4 San Cassiano 91 300m October to April
5 Valmasino 645 900m October to April
6 Val di Mello 366 1150m March to November
7 Selvapiana 90 450m October to March
8 Spriana 58 700m October to April
9 Masso D'Arquino 15 500m October to April

Bouldering guidebooks and topos for Val di Mello, Valmasino and Cimaganda

The Alpen en bloc 1 bouldering guidebook covers Val di MelloThere are currently 2 guidebooks available for these excellent bouldering areas. 

The Mello Boulder guidebook only covers Valmasino and is the most comprehensive guidebook describing Val di Mello, Valle dei Bagni, and Piana del Remenno. 

Alpen en Bloc 1 also covers Val di Mello along with other areas in the central Alps.

All of these guidebooks can be bought from our shop.
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Mello Boulder is the most comprehensive guidebook for the bouldering at Val di Mello and Valmasinoa

The Mello Boulder guidebook is the most comprehensive guidebook for the bouldering at Val di Mello. Buy it from
our shop.

Accommodation for rock climbers in Italy
Accommodation for rock climbers in Italy.