Leonidio was built in a valley on the east coast of the Peloponnese peninsula, and it is surrounded by high quality limestone crags that sit on the hillsides around the town. Leonidio has been described as is the best place to go sport climbing on mainland Greece, and the map opposite shows the location of these crags that are dotted around the town.
The crags that surround Leonidio are a mixture of red and grey limestone rock that is highly featured, offering great routes across a wide range of grades. Currently around 1,000 sport routes have been developed at Leonidio providing many different styles of enjoyable climbing. These include tufa columns, steep crimpy walls, and caves with stalactites, to grey slabs requiring good balance. The vast majority of the sport routes at Leonidio are single pitch that can be up to 40m long, though there are some multi-pitch routes up to 200m long.
The only definitive guidebook available for Leonidio has been produced by the local climbers, and is call Leonidio Climbing Guidebook. Unfortunately this is now out of print with a new edition being prepared. However the Greece Sport climbing Guidebook describes a large number of routes at Leonidio. It covers nearly 700 routes across a wide range of grades from F5 to F9a. Buy this guidebook from our shop.
Number of routes at each grade range to be found at Leonidio
|Up to 4c||5a to 5c+||6a to 6b+||6c to 7a+||7b to 7c+||8a to 8a+||8b to 9a||Project|
It is recommended to take an 80m rope, since some of the routes are up to 40m high and require as many as 20 quickdraws. However it is possible to get away with a 70m rope and still climb the majority of the routes. A helmet is also highly recommended.
Getting to Leonidio is relatively easy, fly direct to Athens and then it is roughly a 4 hour drive to Leonidio in a rented car. No ferries or extra flights are involved.
The best time to climb at Leonidio is from the autumn through to spring (October to April), with the climate being typically Mediterranean. Many of the crags face south providing ideal winter sun-traps, but shade can also be found. The winters are mild with many days of sunshine, and brief periods of rain. Spring and autumn are warm with many days of sunshine, and occasional rain. Summers are hot and dry with almost no rain.
Currently the Greece Sport Climbing Guidebook is the only guidebook available covering routes at Leonidio.