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Rock climbing and sport climbing guidebook for the Verdon Valley


Buy the Aiguines, Verdon Rive Gauche guidebook from our shop.

This guidebook covers all the bolted multi-pitch and single pitch sports climbing to be found in the Verdon Valley, including the classic atmospheric crags at Les Cavaliers, Bauchet & Sallieres.

 
 

Rock climbing in Verdon Gorge

Situated inland between Nice and Marseilles, the river Verdon cuts a deep limestone gorge, 100's metres high, through the Provence countryside. This area of France has long been an established as a classic rock climbing area that offers a wide variety of climbing, with nearly 1000 routes. Here there is everything from short friendly sports routes, to big wall rock climbing that are both bolted and with traditional protection that requires plenty of commitment.

Map of the rock climbing and sports climbing areas in the Verdon Valley
 
Rock Climbing areas at Verdon
Crag no
Crag Are some routes Multi-pitch Grade Range
Total No. of Pitches
Number of Pitches in Grade Range
Up to 6a
6a+ to 6b+
6c to 7a+
7b to 7c+
8a & above
1
Galetas No 3a - 6b+
20
18
1
1
0
0
2
Pas de Gairou No 6b+ - 8a
5
0
1
1
2
1
3
Hauts-Vernis Yes 3a - 7c
93
47
18
20
8
0
4
Col d'illoire Yes 3b - 6a+
18
17
1
0
0
0
5
Vallon d'Estay No 3a - 6c
46
40
3
3
0
0
6
Bauchet Yes 4a - 8b+
97
16
8
36
29
8
7
Sallieres Yes 5a - 8a
25
12
3
7
2
1
8
Petites Pointes Yes 5c - 7b+
10
1
3
4
2
0
9
Cavaliers Yes 2 - 8a+
81
30
8
27
12
4
10
Pantin du Neant Yes 6a - 8a
8
1
0
1
3
3
 

The above information has been extracted from the "Aiguines, Verdon rive gauche" guidebook, which covers the majority of sports routes in the Verdon Valley. Buy this guidebook from our shop. There are other non-bolted routes at Verdon, but these are not covered in this guidebook.

The big wall routes on crags such as Les Cavaliers and Sallieres it is necessary to abseil down to the start of the route, which will be to a hanging belay or a grassy ledge. This atmosphere can be intimidating and is certainly committing, knowing the only way out is to climb your chosen route. However there is a good range grades on these multi-pitch routes that go from F5 up to F8+. However it is worth noting that to climb these routes either a single 70m rope or twin 50m ropes will be necessary as many of the pitches are up to 35m long. The bolted routes in these areas are covered in the "Aiguines, Verdon rive gauche" guidebook, which is available to buy from our shop.

However there are plenty of single pitch sports routes to be found in the Verdon gorge that start from the valley floor, and are therefore much more friendly and safe, at crags such as Bauchet. There are other limestone crags in the immediate area around the gorge that offer mainly single pitch sports routes, along with some multi-pitch routes. All of these routes are covered in the "Aiguines, Verdon rive gauche" guidebook, which is available to buy from our shop.

 
 
The above photograph shows the atmospheric rock climbing available in the Verdon Gorge.
For most of the multi-pitch routes it is necessary to abseil from the top of the gorge to the belay ledge and then climb out.
Image courtesy of ClimbFrance.
Rock climbing photographs of Verdon Rock climbing photographs of Verdon

 

Click on the thumb nail images to view a larger photograph.

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