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Buy the Lake District
Rock Guidebook from our
shop.
This guidebook covers
selected rock climbs in the English Lake District
includes all the classic routes and areas.
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Buy the Northern Limestone guidebook
by RockFax from
our
shop.
This guidebook covers all the limestone
climbing found in the southern Lake District.
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Map
of the rock climbing areas in the Lake District |
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Rock Climbing in the English
Lake District
The mountains of the Lake District
offer some of the most scenic rock climbing to be found
in England. The Lakes provide some unique and spectacular
rock climbing, ranging from the high mountain crags
such as Scafell and Pillar, to the lower crags situated
in the valleys such as Shepherd's in the Borrowdale
valley.
The Lake District is split into a
series of valleys, and each of the main valleys has
several crags. Each of these crags has it's own character
and atmosphere, and indeed often its own special rock
type. The different type of rock includes limestone,
sandstone, slate, granite, gabbro and, most widespread
is the "Borrowdale Volcanic Group". Virtually
all these crags require traditional leader-placed protection
and belays (such as nuts and cams) but a few quarries,
limestone outcrops and the sandstone crags of St Bees
are bolted.
The largest and most spectacular
crags are those at Scafell, Pillar, Gimmer and Dow.
However they are all situated at altitude and suffer
the worst of the weather, which unfortunately happens
a lot in the Lake District. Therefore the more popular
crags tend to be at lower altitude such as the easily
accessed crags at Raven's, Shepherd's, Reecastle or
Castle Rock. In fact it is the great diversity available
that makes rock climbing in the Lake District so enjoyable. |
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The
main rock climbing areas are shown on the above map, and a
brief description of each rock climbing area is given below.
- Langdale. Situated
at the heart of the Lake District is the Langdale valley
stretching towards Scafell Here is perhaps the best concentration
of south-facing crags in The Lakes, allowing climbing at
most times of the year. The valley provides a wide choice
of high mountain crags such as Gimmer and Bowfell Buttress.
There are also plenty of easily accessed lower level crags
such as Raven crag and Pavey Ark, which are quick drying.
At the entrance of the valley, near Chapel Stile, there
is some excellent bouldering.
- Coniston. The
major crag of this area is Dow crag, which is the largest
is the southern Lakes. Dow offers many excellent quality
routes from D through to E6. There are also several slate
quarries at lower level, with some of these routes bolted.
- Eskdale, Scafell & Wasdale.
The valley of Eskdale has many excellent granite crags that
are close to the road, which also includes some excellent
and extensive bouldering, across all grades. Higher up the
valley is Esk crag, one of the finest and most impressive
crags in The Lakes, which offers some excellent wall climbing.
It also has the benefit of facing southeast and is therefore
quick drying. Scafell situated at the end of Wasdale is
the highest crag in England. When it is dry and warm, there
is no finer place in England to climb, though unfortunately
it does also attract some of the worst weather.
- Gable, Pillar & Buttermere.
Great Gable is one of the iconic crags in England with its
famous pinnacle of Napes Needle. There are many routes here
that generally face south and come into condition quickly
after bad weather. Pillar is the only mountain in the Lakes
where the summit is reach purely through rock climbing.
Here there are many excellent multi-pitch routes up to 150m
long. Buttermere is an idyllic valley with many excellent
crags some with sort walk-ins and others providing long
multi-pitch routes.
- Borrowdale.
The Borrowdale valley is one of the most popular places
to go rock climbing in the Lake District. This is due to
its ease of access and the abundance of low level, fast
drying crags along its length, such as Shepherd's crag and
Black crag. The Bowderstone is a well-known and popular
bouldering venue.
- Thirlmere & Patterdale.
In the Thirlmere valley there are some of the finest roadside
crags in the Lake District, such as Castle Rock, which provide
popular and sheltered rock climbing.
- Swindale. This
secluded valley on the eastern side of the Lake District
provides excellent climbing at a variety of grades. It has
the added advantage of usually being dry when the central
Lakes areas are wet.
- St Bees Head. The
sandstone crags on the coast near Whitehaven provide some
excellent bolted sports routes up to 25m long, though they
tend to be in the higher grades. St Bees also offers extensive
sandstone bouldering across a wide range of grades –
perfect when the weather is wet in the mountains.
- Chapel Head Scar.
In the southern Lake District the rock turns to limestone
and there are several established crags, with the largest
being Chapel Head Scar. The majority of these routes are
bolted, though they do tend to be at the higher grades.
- Silverdale.
This area situated south of the Lake District national park
receives much drier weather than the central Lakes area.
Here there are some excellent limestone crags, particularly
at Trowbarrow.
There are many excellent places to go bouldering
in the Lake District, with a wide variety of rock
types and environments to choose from. This ranges from the
high volcanic boulders in the mountains, low lying areas such
as Kentmere and Carrock Fell, the granite of Eskdale or the
seaside sandstone of St Bees. There is a dedicated guidebook
covering all the bouldering in the Lake District, called “Lakes
Bouldering” by Rockfax, which is available
from our
shop. |
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