Being relatively flat, Denmark is not exactly known for its great rock climbing areas. However, Denmark’s best rock climbing area is the delightful holiday island of Bornholm that offers friendly climbing, which along with a pleasant climate, interesting history and hospitable inhabitants, makes Bornholm a great rock climbing holiday destination.
There are no large cliffs on Bornholm but plenty of single pitch routes, with something for everyone across a wide range of grades and styles on great granite rock. The style of the rock climbing is mostly on walls and cracks that ranges from inland bouldering, sea cliff climbing to disused quarries.
Rock climbing areas in Bornholm
|No||Crag Name||Total No of Routes||Sytle of climbing|
The rugged north coast provides the most extensive climbing on Bornholm, with the largest crag being Vang Syd. Here there are a series of granite outcrops that offer friendly single pitch sea cliff climbing. The access is easy with no need to abseil into the bottom of the routes. The nature of the routes are a series of walls and cracks that perfectly suit the traditional ethic of climbing, using nuts and cams, that is used almost everywhere in Bornholm. The exception to this ethic are a number of inland quarries that provide well bolted sport routes. The largest of these sport climbing areas are Moselokken Stenbrud and Vangbruddet.
How to get there? The only way to get to Bornholm is via a ferry to Ronne. The shortest route is from Ystad in Sweden which takes around 1 hour and 20 minutes. Malmo airport is close to Ystad, with Copenhagen airport slightly further away. The best ferry route from mainland Europe is from Sassnitz in Germany, which takes around 3.5 hours. The closest port in Denmark is Koge, which takes around 5.5 hours. As the climbing is scattered around the island away from Ronne a car is advisable to make the most of your trip.
Best time to visit? Bornholm has sometimes being called the “Northern Ibiza” with its pleasant and moderate maritime climate of relatively mild winters and cool summers. The best time to visit Bornholm to rock climb is from the end of June to September, when it is sunnier and drier than mainland Denmark.
Which guidebook for climbing at Bornholm? The only current rock climbing guidebook for Bornholm is called “Bornholm on the Rocks”. Published in 2014, this guidebook covers over 300 routes, which are all shown on colour photo topos. The guidebook also acts as a good travel guide to the area. There are details of how to get there, where to stay, and what to do on rest days. Also included is some general history about Bornholm. Buy this guidebook from our shop.
Bornholm on the Rocks is the only rock climbing guidebook for Bornholm.
Buy this guidebook from our shop.