R
ock climbing guidebooks
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Discover the best places to go rock climbing in Corsica
 
 

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Rock Climbing in Corsica
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Guidebooks for Corsica

 
Rock climbing and sports climbing guidebook for Corsica


Falaises de Corse

is the current guidebook detailing all the sports climbing on the island of Corsica.

Included are the popular rock climbing areas of Restonica, Gozzi & Bavella.

Buy this guidebook from our shop.

 
 

Map of the rock climbing areas in Corsica

The current rock climbing guidebook published in 2006 is called "Falaises de Corse", which details over 40 crags across Corsica and covers over 1,200 sports routes. Buy this guidebook from our shop.

 
Click on the image to view a larger photograph.
These photographs show some of the excellent rock climbing to be found in Corsica.
All photographs by Dave Pickford
 
Rock climbing in Corsica

The island of Corsica has a stunning alpine landscape with peaks over 2,000m that dramatically fall away into the sea. This landscape means there is an abundance of beautiful bolted rock to climb, from coarse weathered granite rock, to sandstone or limestone rock. There is climbing all over the island, from single pitch routes to multi-pitch routes up to 300m long, plus many bouldering areas. Corsica is claimed to have more unclimbed rock than anywhere else in Europe - a truly impressive statement. The rock climbing main areas within Corsica are described below:

(1) Rock climbing around Bastia and Cap Corse. Here the sports climbing ranges from sea cliffs through to inland crags up to 50m long, all on bolted limestone rock.

(2) Rock climbing around Isula Rossa in the Balagne region. High in mountains are a series of isolated buttresses that offer mainly bolted single pitch routes on granite rock.

(3) Rock climbing around Corti in central Corsica. The heart of Corsican climbing is definitely at the Gorges de la Restonica. This valley stretches for nearly 10Km out of Corti, with crags both low lying and high up in the mountains giving single and multi-pitch routes. Here are 100's of sports routes on bolted granite rock offering a good mixture of climbing styles from; big slabs; technical vertical walls with cracks and corners; to overhangs and roofs. There is also a great range of grades from F4 up to F8b, with a good quantity of routes in the F5's, F6's & F7's. The shear quantity of rock here, also means there is great potential for developing new routes.
Around Capuralinu (only 20 minutes from Corti) there are a series of limestone bolted crags. Here the rock climbing is mainly single pitch, with the majority of the grades from F6b upwards.

(4) Rock climbing around Aiacciu. At Gozzi there is perfect balance of mountains and the cliffs, with a great diversity of climbing styles. The red granite is fully bolted with a mixture of single-pitch routes to multi-pitch routes up to 300m long - the longest bolted routes on the island. There are other granite crags around this area, all of which are bolted giving both single and multi-pitch routes (up to 5 pitches long).

(5) Rock climbing in southern Corsica. Here there is a mixture of limestone and granite rock. The limestone crags tend to be at a lower altitude and are single pitch. The granite crags are concentrated around Bavella, which is high up in the mountains. Here there are single and multi-pitch (up to 3 pitches long) bolted routes.

The best months to go rock climbing in Corsica are from spring to early June and then September until the end of autumn. In main summer months of July and August will be just too hot and very busy.


South Western Europe & Morocco Rock Climbing Atlas
The Rock Climbing Atlas for South Western Europe & Morocco describes the rock climbing at Gozzi, Bavella & Restonica in Corsica. This useful book describes the different crags, number of routes, style of climbing, how to get there, where to stay, and general information about the area, though it doesn't describe any individual routes. As well as Corsica, the book also includes information about Italy, Sardinia, France, Malta, Portugal, Spain & Morocco. Buy This book from our shop.

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